Discussion:
New Plan -- Replacing rear bearings on a Dodge pickup?
(too old to reply)
Ignoramus15447
2006-09-27 15:41:59 UTC
Permalink
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.

0. The noises that I have are of two distinct kinds, a whining noise
that appears when I ease the gas pedal, and grinding noise that I hear
at low speeds.

1. I received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer.

2. I will take off the diff cover again, and will try to adjust the
adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec, using a dial indicator to
measure backlash. I hope (and would like you to confirm) that I can do
it using a screwdriver through the access hole.

3. If I cannot get a screwdriver through the hole, I could pull the
axle, and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the
adjuster. I would make it out of some materials, I have a welder. What
I will need to know is dimensions of the tool (ie where to place the
pins etc).

4. After I do that, I will drive around to verify that the whining
noise is gone. If not, I will take the truck to a dealer. I realize
that the grinding noise at low speeds may remain, could be due to
trashed bearings.

5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.

Does this plan make sense?

i
Ignoramus15447
2006-09-27 15:48:12 UTC
Permalink
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
0. The noises that I have are of two distinct kinds, a whining noise
that appears when I ease the gas pedal, and grinding noise that I hear
at low speeds.
1. I received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer.
2. I will take off the diff cover again, and will try to adjust the
adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec, using a dial indicator to
measure backlash. I hope (and would like you to confirm) that I can do
it using a screwdriver through the access hole.
3. If I cannot get a screwdriver through the hole, I could pull the
axle, and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the
adjuster. I would make it out of some materials, I have a welder. What
I will need to know is dimensions of the tool (ie where to place the
pins etc).
The tool is called C-4164, Adjuster Rotator.

i
Post by Ignoramus15447
4. After I do that, I will drive around to verify that the whining
noise is gone. If not, I will take the truck to a dealer. I realize
that the grinding noise at low speeds may remain, could be due to
trashed bearings.
5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.
Does this plan make sense?
i
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
2006-09-27 15:49:58 UTC
Permalink
Post by Ignoramus15447
5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.
Does this plan make sense?
I suspect that if the bearings are bad, you'll never be sure the backlash
adjustment is right or that it will stay that way.
I'd go for the bearings first.

LLoyd
Ignoramus15447
2006-09-27 15:55:40 UTC
Permalink
Post by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
Post by Ignoramus15447
5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.
Does this plan make sense?
I suspect that if the bearings are bad, you'll never be sure the backlash
adjustment is right or that it will stay that way.
I'd go for the bearings first.
OK, I did not think about it. The reason for my decision to do it this
way is to not throw good money after bad, that is, if the truck will
need to be taken to a dealer, to not pay for bearings twice.

i
Ignoramus15447
2006-09-27 16:06:00 UTC
Permalink
I have decided to buy that tool, it is not that expensive and I can
always sell it after I am done with this truck, at a modest loss. Paid
$45 or so including shipping.

It is called differential preload wrench C-4164.

i
Post by Ignoramus15447
Post by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
Post by Ignoramus15447
5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.
Does this plan make sense?
I suspect that if the bearings are bad, you'll never be sure the backlash
adjustment is right or that it will stay that way.
I'd go for the bearings first.
OK, I did not think about it. The reason for my decision to do it this
way is to not throw good money after bad, that is, if the truck will
need to be taken to a dealer, to not pay for bearings twice.
i
Carl Byrns
2006-09-27 16:19:49 UTC
Permalink
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
Jeez, Iggy- instead of fixing the thing on the installment plan, why not
find an axle at a wrecking yard and replace the whole thing?
It's an easy job.

If the gear mesh has been wrong since Day One, then you will wind up
replacing the ring and pinion ($$$).

-Carl
Ignoramus15447
2006-09-27 16:43:33 UTC
Permalink
Post by Carl Byrns
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
Jeez, Iggy- instead of fixing the thing on the installment plan, why not
find an axle at a wrecking yard and replace the whole thing?
It's an easy job.
If the gear mesh has been wrong since Day One, then you will wind up
replacing the ring and pinion ($$$).
You know, that is definitely a possibility. I did spend some time on
some site like car-parts.com or some such, trying to find a rear axle,
and did not find any, and did not pursue this further.

I think that if my attempt at alignment does not work, I will
definitely look in this direction.


i
beekeep
2006-09-27 17:11:22 UTC
Permalink
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 16:43:33 GMT, Ignoramus15447
Post by Ignoramus15447
Post by Carl Byrns
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
Jeez, Iggy- instead of fixing the thing on the installment plan, why not
find an axle at a wrecking yard and replace the whole thing?
It's an easy job.
If the gear mesh has been wrong since Day One, then you will wind up
replacing the ring and pinion ($$$).
You know, that is definitely a possibility. I did spend some time on
some site like car-parts.com or some such, trying to find a rear axle,
and did not find any, and did not pursue this further.
I think that if my attempt at alignment does not work, I will
definitely look in this direction.
i
I picked up a complete set of near new rear end guts on ebay for $25. They were
changed out when different size wheels were put on the vehicle. You can get
some real bargains there.

beekeep
s***@prolynx.com
2006-09-27 18:47:49 UTC
Permalink
Post by Ignoramus15447
Post by Carl Byrns
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
Jeez, Iggy- instead of fixing the thing on the installment plan, why not
find an axle at a wrecking yard and replace the whole thing?
It's an easy job.
If the gear mesh has been wrong since Day One, then you will wind up
replacing the ring and pinion ($$$).
You know, that is definitely a possibility. I did spend some time on
some site like car-parts.com or some such, trying to find a rear axle,
and did not find any, and did not pursue this further.
I think that if my attempt at alignment does not work, I will
definitely look in this direction.
You know, for all the internet can help you locate stuff, there's still
places that don't do any business there. Junkyards are one type of
business that doesn't. Some of the high-end joints will do that, but
you get what you get that way, you don't get to pick and chose what
vehicle your part comes off of, they typically will have everything
disassembled and racked, you pay big for that. The U-Pullits around
here don't even know what they've got out in the yard. Charge you a
buck to get in and what you see is what they've got. Rotate stock
every week or so, stuff gets crushed whether it's stripped or not.
Rear ends are typically $17-20 around here, hardly worth messing with
bearings, shims, backlash, etc. If the vehicle is popular in the area,
they've got lots of wrecks. Sometimes you just have to get out from in
front of the computer and go track stuff down in person. I usually get
my buck's worth by picking up discarded trim fasteners even if there's
nothing on the lot I can use.

Stan
beekeep
2006-09-27 17:13:29 UTC
Permalink
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:41:59 GMT, Ignoramus15447
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
0. The noises that I have are of two distinct kinds, a whining noise
that appears when I ease the gas pedal, and grinding noise that I hear
at low speeds.
1. I received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer.
2. I will take off the diff cover again, and will try to adjust the
adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec, using a dial indicator to
measure backlash. I hope (and would like you to confirm) that I can do
it using a screwdriver through the access hole.
Don't do this.
Post by Ignoramus15447
3. If I cannot get a screwdriver through the hole, I could pull the
axle, and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the
adjuster. I would make it out of some materials, I have a welder. What
I will need to know is dimensions of the tool (ie where to place the
pins etc).
No pins! A hex fits into the hole of the adjuster.
Post by Ignoramus15447
4. After I do that, I will drive around to verify that the whining
noise is gone. If not, I will take the truck to a dealer. I realize
that the grinding noise at low speeds may remain, could be due to
trashed bearings.
5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.
Does this plan make sense?
If you suspect the carrier bearings why not just go ahead and replace them while
you have it open?

beekeep
Ignoramus15447
2006-09-27 17:35:28 UTC
Permalink
Post by beekeep
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:41:59 GMT, Ignoramus15447
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
0. The noises that I have are of two distinct kinds, a whining noise
that appears when I ease the gas pedal, and grinding noise that I hear
at low speeds.
1. I received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer.
2. I will take off the diff cover again, and will try to adjust the
adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec, using a dial indicator to
measure backlash. I hope (and would like you to confirm) that I can do
it using a screwdriver through the access hole.
Don't do this.
Post by Ignoramus15447
3. If I cannot get a screwdriver through the hole, I could pull the
axle, and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the
adjuster. I would make it out of some materials, I have a welder. What
I will need to know is dimensions of the tool (ie where to place the
pins etc).
No pins! A hex fits into the hole of the adjuster.
Yes, I ordered a real tool, it was not that expensive.
Post by beekeep
Post by Ignoramus15447
4. After I do that, I will drive around to verify that the whining
noise is gone. If not, I will take the truck to a dealer. I realize
that the grinding noise at low speeds may remain, could be due to
trashed bearings.
5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.
Does this plan make sense?
If you suspect the carrier bearings why not just go ahead and replace them while
you have it open?
Because I am not sure what the issue it. It is easy enough to open the
diff and pull the axles the second time.

i
Jon Elson
2006-09-27 22:00:32 UTC
Permalink
Post by Ignoramus15447
Post by beekeep
If you suspect the carrier bearings why not just go ahead and replace them while
you have it open?
Because I am not sure what the issue it. It is easy enough to open the
diff and pull the axles the second time.
Looking at the mess of metal chips in there when you first opened it up,
I have
been thinking all along that EVERY bearing in the axle has got to be
damaged.
That GRINDING noise really sounds like confirmation. If the carrier
bearings
are bad, the pinion bearings have got to be, too. They spin several
times faster,
too. This damage may be too subtle to be visibly obvious until the
bearings are
pulled out and the lube totally cleaned off, but the pressure applied at
the contact
points of these roller bearings are huge, and any crud getting between
roller and
race will leave dents.

Jon
Don Young
2006-09-28 02:44:55 UTC
Permalink
Post by Ignoramus15447
Post by beekeep
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:41:59 GMT, Ignoramus15447
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
0. The noises that I have are of two distinct kinds, a whining noise
that appears when I ease the gas pedal, and grinding noise that I hear
at low speeds.
1. I received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer.
2. I will take off the diff cover again, and will try to adjust the
adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec, using a dial indicator to
measure backlash. I hope (and would like you to confirm) that I can do
it using a screwdriver through the access hole.
Don't do this.
Post by Ignoramus15447
3. If I cannot get a screwdriver through the hole, I could pull the
axle, and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the
adjuster. I would make it out of some materials, I have a welder. What
I will need to know is dimensions of the tool (ie where to place the
pins etc).
No pins! A hex fits into the hole of the adjuster.
Yes, I ordered a real tool, it was not that expensive.
Post by beekeep
Post by Ignoramus15447
4. After I do that, I will drive around to verify that the whining
noise is gone. If not, I will take the truck to a dealer. I realize
that the grinding noise at low speeds may remain, could be due to
trashed bearings.
5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.
Does this plan make sense?
If you suspect the carrier bearings why not just go ahead and replace them while
you have it open?
Because I am not sure what the issue it. It is easy enough to open the
diff and pull the axles the second time.
i
I seriously doubt that adjusting the backlash is going to be anything but a
waste of time. If the rear end needs work the only logical procedure is to
disassemble it and have a good look at all of the bearings and gears. Then
either get another rear end or replace the damaged parts and adjust it
correctly.

The only possible exception would be if the non-functional lock resulted in
the loss of correct adjustment but no damage to gears or bearings. This
seems very unlikely, especially since metal particles were found. In light
of all that has been discovered and done, I believe you have damaged pinion
bearings. The carrier bearings, gears and remaining axle bearing would all
be suspect and are best examined after disassembly.

If you feel adventurous, go for a rebuild. You will certainly learn from it.
It is not difficult but requires patience, decent mechanical skills, and a
willingness to follow directions carefully. I would definitely disassemble
it, even if I decided to replace it.

Don Young
Ignoramus20860
2006-09-28 15:09:56 UTC
Permalink
Post by Don Young
Post by Ignoramus15447
Post by beekeep
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:41:59 GMT, Ignoramus15447
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
0. The noises that I have are of two distinct kinds, a whining noise
that appears when I ease the gas pedal, and grinding noise that I hear
at low speeds.
1. I received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer.
2. I will take off the diff cover again, and will try to adjust the
adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec, using a dial indicator to
measure backlash. I hope (and would like you to confirm) that I can do
it using a screwdriver through the access hole.
Don't do this.
Post by Ignoramus15447
3. If I cannot get a screwdriver through the hole, I could pull the
axle, and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the
adjuster. I would make it out of some materials, I have a welder. What
I will need to know is dimensions of the tool (ie where to place the
pins etc).
No pins! A hex fits into the hole of the adjuster.
Yes, I ordered a real tool, it was not that expensive.
The sellers refunded me the money, as they were "out of stock". I am
out high and dry, without the wrench, will look some more.

i
Post by Don Young
Post by Ignoramus15447
Post by beekeep
Post by Ignoramus15447
4. After I do that, I will drive around to verify that the whining
noise is gone. If not, I will take the truck to a dealer. I realize
that the grinding noise at low speeds may remain, could be due to
trashed bearings.
5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.
Does this plan make sense?
If you suspect the carrier bearings why not just go ahead and replace them while
you have it open?
Because I am not sure what the issue it. It is easy enough to open the
diff and pull the axles the second time.
i
I seriously doubt that adjusting the backlash is going to be anything but a
waste of time. If the rear end needs work the only logical procedure is to
disassemble it and have a good look at all of the bearings and gears. Then
either get another rear end or replace the damaged parts and adjust it
correctly.
The only possible exception would be if the non-functional lock resulted in
the loss of correct adjustment but no damage to gears or bearings. This
seems very unlikely, especially since metal particles were found. In light
of all that has been discovered and done, I believe you have damaged pinion
bearings. The carrier bearings, gears and remaining axle bearing would all
be suspect and are best examined after disassembly.
If you feel adventurous, go for a rebuild. You will certainly learn from it.
It is not difficult but requires patience, decent mechanical skills, and a
willingness to follow directions carefully. I would definitely disassemble
it, even if I decided to replace it.
Don Young
beekeep
2006-09-28 16:13:50 UTC
Permalink
On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 15:09:56 GMT, Ignoramus20860
Post by Ignoramus20860
Post by Ignoramus15447
Yes, I ordered a real tool, it was not that expensive.
The sellers refunded me the money, as they were "out of stock". I am
out high and dry, without the wrench, will look some more.
Here's what you need. 30" of 1/2" allthread, 2 - 1/2" nuts and a 1" x 3/8"
hexhead pipe bushing. Weld one nut on one end and screw the other on the other
end. The second nut just keeps the bushing straight when you weld it on. Weld
on the pipe bushing with the hex towards the end of the rod and weld on a couple
of tits at the back of the hex so you can't push it all the way through the
adjuster. The hex should be 1 3/8" across the faces.

beekeep
Ignoramus20860
2006-09-28 16:25:22 UTC
Permalink
Post by beekeep
On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 15:09:56 GMT, Ignoramus20860
Post by Ignoramus20860
Post by Ignoramus15447
Yes, I ordered a real tool, it was not that expensive.
The sellers refunded me the money, as they were "out of stock". I am
out high and dry, without the wrench, will look some more.
Here's what you need. 30" of 1/2" allthread, 2 - 1/2" nuts and a 1" x 3/8"
hexhead pipe bushing. Weld one nut on one end and screw the other on the other
end. The second nut just keeps the bushing straight when you weld it on. Weld
on the pipe bushing with the hex towards the end of the rod and weld on a couple
of tits at the back of the hex so you can't push it all the way through the
adjuster. The hex should be 1 3/8" across the faces.
Thanks Beekeep. I found that thing on a website this morning, see

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc6602.html

I think that I will just wait to receive that wrench, 1/2" allthread
and fittings are not exactly cheap, so I would not save much. Removing
axles on this pickup is actually very easy, the second time I do it
it would take me maybe 15 minutes or less.

i

Roger Shoaf
2006-09-27 23:02:26 UTC
Permalink
Another option is to replace the whole rear end with one from the auto
wreckers. Might be cheaper than having the dealer fix the old one.

Of all the clunkers I have driven, I have never had a rear end fail, so I
suspect the odds of getting a good one from the wrecker on the first try are
pretty high, and swapping out the rear end seems to be an easy DIY task.
--
Roger Shoaf

If knowledge is power, and power corrupts, what does this say about the
Congress?
Post by Ignoramus15447
OK guys... My plan for now is as follows.
0. The noises that I have are of two distinct kinds, a whining noise
that appears when I ease the gas pedal, and grinding noise that I hear
at low speeds.
1. I received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer.
2. I will take off the diff cover again, and will try to adjust the
adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec, using a dial indicator to
measure backlash. I hope (and would like you to confirm) that I can do
it using a screwdriver through the access hole.
3. If I cannot get a screwdriver through the hole, I could pull the
axle, and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the
adjuster. I would make it out of some materials, I have a welder. What
I will need to know is dimensions of the tool (ie where to place the
pins etc).
4. After I do that, I will drive around to verify that the whining
noise is gone. If not, I will take the truck to a dealer. I realize
that the grinding noise at low speeds may remain, could be due to
trashed bearings.
5. If the whining noise is gone, I will take the diff apart and
replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. I am
not, yet, sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together
correctly.
Does this plan make sense?
i
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