Drilling chainsaw bar

[Jim Wilkins]

I'd like to attach a 20" Husqvarna bar to an Alaskan mill with flush
flathead screws instead of the provided clamps to increase lower side
clearance for slabbing some of the bark off logs too wide to fit my sawmill.
I found suggestions for using a carbide masonry or glass drill in the
hardened steel, but nothing on possible damage to the tip sprocket pivot
from drilling through it between the four rivets.

https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-20-Chainsaw-Guide-Bar/dp/B08HNCZWXX?

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Jim Wilkins
I'd like to attach a 20" Husqvarna bar to an Alaskan mill with flush
flathead screws instead of the provided clamps to increase lower side
clearance for slabbing some of the bark off logs too wide to fit my
sawmill. I found suggestions for using a carbide masonry or glass drill
in the hardened steel, but nothing on possible damage to the tip
sprocket pivot from drilling through it between the four rivets.
https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-20-Chainsaw-Guide-Bar/dp/B08HNCZWXX?

As I am sure you are aware, but "chainsaw mill" is a thing. How do they
manage securing the blade on those?

[Leon Fisk]

On Fri, 6 Sep 2024 10:10:59 -0700

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Jim Wilkins
I'd like to attach a 20" Husqvarna bar to an Alaskan mill with flush
flathead screws instead of the provided clamps to increase lower side
clearance for slabbing some of the bark off logs too wide to fit my
sawmill. I found suggestions for using a carbide masonry or glass drill
in the hardened steel, but nothing on possible damage to the tip
sprocket pivot from drilling through it between the four rivets.
https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-20-Chainsaw-Guide-Bar/dp/B08HNCZWXX?

As I am sure you are aware, but "chainsaw mill" is a thing. How do they
manage securing the blade on those?

Maybe just knock out 1 or 2 rivets and use those holes?

Youtube video here where a guy takes the roller tip off an Oregon Bar:

From that video it looks like that center part that is riveted in might
be really hard, bearing surface metal😬

[Jim Wilkins]

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:vbfi68$tpko$***@dont-email.me...

On Fri, 6 Sep 2024 10:10:59 -0700

Post by Jim Wilkins
I'd like to attach a 20" Husqvarna bar to an Alaskan mill with flush
flathead screws ...

Maybe just knock out 1 or 2 rivets and use those holes?
-----------------------------------
That's a good idea to avoid drilling the hardened center of the bar tip
sprocket bearing. The rivets on mine are smaller than I want the screw(s) to
be so I tried a 1/8" Harbor Freight glass drill reground nearly to a split
point, which did the job. A 3/16" glass drill opened the hole for a #10
screw (~5mm) which is close to the 6mm provided to screw the bar to the
lower clamp.

Since I want to use it to cut off a slab part way down the rounded edge of
logs the clearance needs to be greater on the bottom side and the lower bar
clamp would be in the way. I cut off only enough to fit the log between the
uprights of the sawmill carriage.

The clearance is 22". If I'd made it 24" I could have sold a carpenter
friend a custom solid oak bar top blank for around $1000. His customer
demanded just a little more length and width than my saw's capacity.

I turn these logs to cut another side by hanging their ends from loops of
rope run through snatch block winch recovery pulleys. A Peavey hook lever is
enough to turn a 2000 Lb log.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:vc1rak$vbke$***@dont-email.me...

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:vbfi68$tpko$***@dont-email.me...

On Fri, 6 Sep 2024 10:10:59 -0700

Post by Jim Wilkins
I'd like to attach a 20" Husqvarna bar to an Alaskan mill with flush
flathead screws ...

Maybe just knock out 1 or 2 rivets and use those holes?
-----------------------------------
That's a good idea to avoid drilling the hardened center of the bar tip
sprocket bearing. The rivets on mine are smaller than I want the screw(s) to
be ...

---------------------
Also the grease holes are aligned with the ID of the sprocket, the roller
bearing outer race, so I can't see the size of the inner pivot which might
not have enough clearance to open the rivet holes. A 20" bar that fits my
saw, which was meant for 18" max, is expensive and hard to find. Longer bars
use a different chain pitch and tip sprocket.

My saw is a little below the suggested minimum for an Alaskan mill though
it's been enough for occasional partial-width slabbing with a different
ripping guide that's tricky to align accurately. I just finished cutting off
a first slab and am about to start the other side.

The guide is this type:
https://www.amazon.com/Chainsaw-Attachment-Cutting-Vertical-Portable/dp/B0BFVY6MBN
It works well enough if the log is small enough to attach the plank to the
top, but I need the guide plank beside the log part way down for the bar to
reach through the slab.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vbfd32$t6gk$***@dont-email.me...

As I am sure you are aware, but "chainsaw mill" is a thing. How do they
manage securing the blade on those?
Bob La Londe

---------------------------------------------

The chainsaw bar is held between clamps at both ends. These clamps are
square hollow steel tubing joined by bolts at the ends, with short strips of
steel welded to the inner sides in the center to space out the tubes clear
of the chain. Tapped holes in the centers of the clamps can be used to screw
the bar more securely in place if it's drilled to match. That is what I want
to do, to eliminate the bottom clamp so the bar can cut a wider slab part
way down the curve of the log.

The chainsaw guide I have clamps the blade perpendicular to a 2x6 that the
guide slides on. It works well on logs that are only a little too wide but
doesn't allow the bar to reach through the slab on thicker ones, because the
saw body is above the 2x6 and the clamp that holds the bar.