Successful Transplant !

[Snag]

I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place before
my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've abused
it the last few days harvesting firewood .
I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was hoping
to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks promising
so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to replace . This is
going to be interesting , my first experience with a limited slip diff .
Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make things a bit more lively
too .

[Bob La Londe]

  I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place before
my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've abused
it the last few days harvesting firewood .
  I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was hoping
to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks promising
so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to replace . This is
going to be interesting , my first experience with a limited slip diff .
Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make things a bit more lively
too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.

The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.

The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.

I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff.
Can't speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.

Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.

FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.

[Snag]

Post by Bob La Londe

   I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
   I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.

I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .

[Jim Wilkins]

"Snag" wrote in message news:vfegut$2qjfr$***@dont-email.me...
...The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
Snag
---------------------------
On my Honda lock lack was a symptom of a thermostat that wasn't fully
closing and let the engine run cooler in the morning than a temperature
switch trip point. The torque converter locked around noon after climbing a
hill.

Since I once built production test stations for engine controls I had read
the section of my factory shop manual that explained that and immediately
realized what was happening.

The separate engine and emissions control manual for my 1991 Ford Ranger is
4" thick.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/374507462127
I needed it to diagnose an intermittent problem with ignition dwell time.

jsw

[Snag]

Post by Jim Wilkins
...The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
Snag
---------------------------
On my Honda lock lack was a symptom of a thermostat that wasn't fully
closing and let the engine run cooler in the morning than a temperature
switch trip point. The torque converter locked around noon after
climbing a hill.
Since I once built production test stations for engine controls I had
read the section of my factory shop manual that explained that and
immediately realized what was happening.
The separate engine and emissions control manual for my 1991 Ford Ranger
is 4" thick.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/374507462127
I needed it to diagnose an intermittent problem with ignition dwell time.
jsw

The only control on this one is a vacuum switch . It can be tested
with a vacuum pump and a volt/ohm meter - if I knew which wire went
where . I haven't done much tuning , I was waiting until I had the drive
train in it's final configuration .

[Jim Wilkins]

"Snag" wrote in message news:vfg0iq$35k3b$***@dont-email.me...

The only control on this one is a vacuum switch . It can be tested
with a vacuum pump and a volt/ohm meter - if I knew which wire went
where . I haven't done much tuning , I was waiting until I had the drive
train in it's final configuration .
Snag

----------------------------------
In case you or some other reader doesn't know it, intake manifold vacuum is
an easily accessible indication of the combined accelerator/throttle
position and the load on the engine. It's high when cruising at a light load
that allows more distributor spark advance without knocking and torque
converter lockup.

https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05127/en-us
"Under a light load and part throttle conditions, timing can be advanced.
This improves throttle response and makes the engine more efficient. It also
helps the engine run cooler. The vacuum advance provides this benefit BEFORE
the Mechanical Advance provides Total Timing."

I've been in the GM lab with the "flow bench" for testing carburetors but
didn't have a chance to learn about it, the machine I had built and was
setting up simulated faults in the 12V power supply to a fuel injection
computer.

[Snag]

  The only control on this one is a vacuum switch . It can be tested
with a vacuum pump and a volt/ohm meter - if I knew which wire went
where . I haven't done much tuning , I was waiting until I had the drive
train in it's final configuration .
Snag
----------------------------------
In case you or some other reader doesn't know it, intake manifold vacuum
is an easily accessible indication of the combined accelerator/throttle
position and the load on the engine. It's high when cruising at a light
load that allows more distributor spark advance without knocking and
torque converter lockup.
https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05127/en-us
"Under a light load and part throttle conditions, timing can be
advanced. This improves throttle response and makes the engine more
efficient. It also helps the engine run cooler. The vacuum advance
provides this benefit BEFORE the Mechanical Advance provides Total Timing."
I've been in the GM lab with the "flow bench" for testing carburetors
but didn't have a chance to learn about it, the machine I had built and
was setting up simulated faults in the 12V power supply to a fuel
injection computer.

I've got an Edelbrock 1405 on it , can't justify the cost of an
aftermarket injection setup . Ignition timing is one area that I intend
to work on . I have an Accel HiPo distributor on it . My performance guy
thinks that I need to dial in more than 8° initial advance , and there
are adjustments on the dist for how fast the vacuum advance comes in .
This will never be a "fire breathing monster" , but I do hope to get a
little smoke from the rear tires ...

[Jim Wilkins]

"Snag" wrote in message news:vfg75j$36oul$***@dont-email.me...

On 10/25/2024 7:38 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
I've got an Edelbrock 1405 on it , can't justify the cost of an
aftermarket injection setup . Ignition timing is one area that I intend
to work on . I have an Accel HiPo distributor on it . My performance guy
thinks that I need to dial in more than 8° initial advance , and there
are adjustments on the dist for how fast the vacuum advance comes in .
This will never be a "fire breathing monster" , but I do hope to get a
little smoke from the rear tires ...
Snag
----------------------

That company folded in the late 70's and I moved on to higher tech, so I
don't know much about later engine control developments beyond what's in the
shop manuals for my own 1991 and 2000 vehicles.

[Snag]

...
 I've got an Edelbrock 1405 on it , can't justify the cost of an
aftermarket injection setup . Ignition timing is one area that I intend
to work on . I have an Accel HiPo distributor on it . My performance guy
thinks that I need to dial in more than 8° initial advance , and there
are adjustments on the dist for how fast the vacuum advance comes in .
This will never be a "fire breathing monster" , but I do hope to get a
little smoke from the rear tires ...
Snag
----------------------
That company folded in the late 70's and I moved on to higher tech, so I
don't know much about later engine control developments beyond what's in
the shop manuals for my own 1991 and 2000 vehicles.

Holley is still selling Accel products ...

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Snag

Post by Bob La Londe

   I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
   I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.

I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .

Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.

[Snag]

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Bob La Londe

   I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
   I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.

I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .

Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.

Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Snag

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Bob La Londe

   I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
   I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.

I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .

Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.

Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .

If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.

[Snag]

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Bob La Londe

   I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
   I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.

I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .

Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.

Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .

If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.

This is a 700R4 ... I'll have to check the vacuum system diagrams to
see what the original setup was , there may have been a thermo switch in
there somewhere . Lockup will be more important for trips should I use
the truck . Around here in the "mountains" of the southern Ozarks it's
not likely to be locked up all that much - but I do want it functional .

[Jim Wilkins]

"Snag" wrote in message news:vfka9v$3d9o$***@dont-email.me...

...
Around here in the "mountains" of the southern Ozarks it's
not likely to be locked up all that much - but I do want it functional .
--
Snag
---------------------------------

My 2000 CRV has a transmission control feature I don't quite understand that
gives good engine braking down steep hills. I suspect it might be downshift
plus lockup. I haven't heard the loud ABS pump engage for it.

This describes a more modern off-road version; mine functions at 40-50MPH.
https://www.hondainfocenter.com/Terms-and-Technologies/_content/Terms-and-Technologies/Hill-Descent-Control/

It may have been a Land Rover contribution from their brief joint venture,
the boxy body design was entirely theirs, fortunately the electrical system
isn't, Honda had been making the AWD SUV-like Civic wagon for over a decade.

Newer CRV models are more stylish and less practical so I'm looking
elsewhere for an AWD replacement if/when mine breaks beyond repair.

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Snag

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Bob La Londe

   I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
   I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.

I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .

Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.

Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .

If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.

This is a 700R4 ... I'll have to check the vacuum system diagrams to
see what the original setup was , there may have been a thermo switch in
there somewhere . Lockup will be more important for trips should I use
the truck . Around here in the "mountains" of the southern Ozarks it's
not likely to be locked up all that much - but I do want it functional .

early 400 R4 setup uses vac switch and brake light switch external to
the trans and has a 4th gear clutch applied switch and a momentary 4/3
downshift switch inside the trans

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Bob La Londe

   I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
   I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.

I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .

Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.

Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .

If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.

Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which
will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD
prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some
don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to
drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid,
others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear
pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk
cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)

[Snag]

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Snag

Post by Bob La Londe

   I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
   I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.

I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .

Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.

Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .

If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.

Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which
will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD
prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some
don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to
drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid,
others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear
pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk
cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)

I'll check with the guy that built it this week . It's possible that
the rebuilt converter he supplied doesn't have lockup , I understand
that some don't but that may be an aftermarket thing .

[Jim Wilkins]

"Snag" wrote in message news:vfmm48$lo8n$***@dont-email.me...

I'll check with the guy that built it this week . It's possible that
the rebuilt converter he supplied doesn't have lockup , I understand
that some don't but that may be an aftermarket thing
Snag
--------------------------------------
https://gearstar.com/what-is-lockup-torque-converter

A torque converter is like one fan blowing on another fan to transfer
rotation while allowing slippage without wear, though it wastes energy as
heat. The lockup is a clutch that connects the two fans (turbines) together
when conditions allow. The indication of lockup is the tach needle moving in
sync with the speedo needle instead of jumping when you change gas pedal
pressure.

https://fitzequipment.net/how-to-test-a-torque-converter/
In Drive with the brakes locked full throttle engine RPM should be around
2000 unless you have the actual specs.

Torque converters developed the simpler fluid couplings of the late 1930's
and were highly improved for WW2 airplane engine superchargers, to isolate
crankshaft power stroke vibrations from the high flywheel inertia of the
compressor rotor.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydramatic

[Snag]

  I'll check with the guy that built it this week . It's possible that
the rebuilt converter he supplied doesn't have lockup , I understand
that some don't but that may be an aftermarket thing
Snag
--------------------------------------
https://gearstar.com/what-is-lockup-torque-converter
A torque converter is like one fan blowing on another fan to transfer
rotation while allowing slippage without wear, though it wastes energy
as heat. The lockup is a clutch that connects the two fans (turbines)
together when conditions allow. The indication of lockup is the tach
needle moving in sync with the speedo needle instead of jumping when you
change gas pedal pressure.
https://fitzequipment.net/how-to-test-a-torque-converter/
In Drive with the brakes locked full throttle engine RPM should be
around 2000 unless you have the actual specs.
Torque converters developed the simpler fluid couplings of the late
1930's and were highly improved for WW2 airplane engine superchargers,
to isolate crankshaft power stroke vibrations from the high flywheel
inertia of the compressor rotor.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydramatic

Ummmm Jim ...

I found out today that basically all OE TC's that fit 700R4 trannies
are capable of lockup . I also learned that the tick coming from mine is
most likely to be internal since there are no loose or too long bolts in
there . And with the flywheel cover off it is a lot LOUDER . As I said
I'll be talking to the shop that built the trans later this week . I
know for sure it ain't lockin' up because the tach needle tracks with
throttle instead of with speedo .
I was going to do it today , but we were out of buns - the grandson
is up for a visit and wants brats-n-tots for dinner - and I'm the baker
. The last batch - hot dog buns - has about 13 minutes left on the timer
...

[Jim Wilkins]

Post by Jim Wilkins
https://gearstar.com/what-is-lockup-torque-converter

Ummmm Jim ...

I found out today that basically all OE TC's that fit 700R4 trannies
are capable of lockup . I also learned that the tick coming from mine is
most likely to be internal since there are no loose or too long bolts in
there . And with the flywheel cover off it is a lot LOUDER . As I said
I'll be talking to the shop that built the trans later this week . I
know for sure it ain't lockin' up because the tach needle tracks with
throttle instead of with speedo . ...
Snag

----------------------------------

I post this stuff because I've been searching discussion groups for
information and finding mainly scattered snippets directed at the questioner
that don't help explain the big picture I'm looking for.

[Snag]

Post by Jim Wilkins
https://gearstar.com/what-is-lockup-torque-converter

  Ummmm Jim ...
  I found out today that basically all OE TC's that fit 700R4 trannies
are capable of lockup . I also learned that the tick coming from mine is
most likely to be internal since there are no loose or too long bolts in
there . And with the flywheel cover off it is a lot LOUDER . As I said
I'll be talking to the shop that built the trans later this week . I
know for sure it ain't lockin' up because the tach needle tracks with
throttle instead of with speedo . ...
Snag
----------------------------------
I post this stuff because I've been searching discussion groups for
information and finding mainly scattered snippets directed at the
questioner that don't help explain the big picture I'm looking for.

I shoulda realized ...

[Jim Wilkins]

Post by Jim Wilkins
I post this stuff because I've been searching discussion groups for
information and finding mainly scattered snippets directed at the
questioner that don't help explain the big picture I'm looking for.

I shoulda realized ...
--
Snag
-----------------------------
For example the Jackery 290 claims to have an MPPT controller but monitoring
the charging current and voltage doesn't show signs of one, it looks more
like a current-limited step-down converter that doesn't hunt for the maximum
power point. I don't want to experiment with it until I have a good idea of
what it can or can't accept for input. Their phone support site naturally
isn't staffed with engineers and I haven't found evidence of user
experimentation beyond measuring run times. One snippet was a mention in the
FAQ of 200W solar panels being acceptable, without explanation of what it
would do with their excess power. Apparently it limits itself to pulling
60W.

I'm measuring my 12VDC freezer's run time on it. So far it's headed for 15
hours, more than enough to sleep through.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:vfp4c9$16vsf$***@dont-email.me...
I'm measuring my 12VDC freezer's run time on [a Jackery E290]. So far it's
headed for 15
hours, more than enough to sleep through.

-------------------------------------
I stopped it at 12% charge, a bit short of 14 hours. Keeping food cold
overnight is the most difficult of my power outage challenges and the E290
has proven adequate. When awake I can run and monitor a generator after the
storm abates; at night it could be stolen if audible from the street, though
finally some neighbors have installed permanent ones loud enough to mask
mine. Storing food outdoors in the car suffices in winter but the US
Northeast gets hurricanes in warm weather too.

My 12VDC powered fridge and/or freezer is an Alpicool T60. Its operating
cost would be $3-5 per month if it was on grid power, which means the solar
installation would never pay for itself, the benefit is independence. Home
Depot offers a similar product if you want to deal with humans in a local
store without paying the high price of an RV appliance.
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/SIMZLIFE-12-Volt-Refrigerators-4-68-48-Quart-Portable-Freezer-with-Wheels-CFA-45-HD/327644459?

As stationary backup cold food storage at home they don't need the highest
reliability (= cost?). 60 liters doesn't hold enough to make occasionally
shuffling the contents in the chest style too inconvenient. For me the 20
liter size was more practical for long car trips, as it fits within reach in
a rear foot well.

I ask the RV'ers I meet what they use for 12V off-grid appliances. So far
all have had the $500 - $1000 name brand mini fridges like Engel and
Dometic, so I haven't heard travel experience with the cheaper models. My
Alpicool T60 has been fine, the older C20 sometimes glitched and needed a
reset.
jsw

[Jim Wilkins]

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message news:***@4ax.com...

Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which
will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD
prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some
don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to
drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid,
others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear
pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk
cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)

-------------------------------------

Look for a DC rating on the switch. DC current is more difficult to break
than AC because AC goes to zero between cycles while DC doesn't and can
continue to arc like welding, especially with inductance such as a solenoid
in the circuit. The same applies to relays, circuit breakers and fuses. A DC
voltage rating may be much lower than the AC rating. My lab equipment can
test them and several 12V car audio circuit breakers have failed after
tripping correctly once.

http://www.dansmc.com/dc_switches.htm

He is wrong about gender, it's affected by several types of survivable DNA
birth defects.

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Bob La Londe

  I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place before
my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've abused
it the last few days harvesting firewood .
  I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was hoping
to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks promising
so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to replace . This is
going to be interesting , my first experience with a limited slip diff .
Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make things a bit more lively
too .

I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff.
Can't speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

My '96Ranger 4 liter 5 speed was my first "limited slip" vehicle.
SZtill have it at 392000km and still love it - but the first thing
that caught my attention was that when you got the rear wheels
spinning is you lost your "rudder". The non-spinner with an open rear
end keeps the vehicle going more or less in a straight line. When both
are spinning the rear end pretty much goes wherever it wants!!!
Mine has 3.55 gears and replacing the piddly 14 inch OEM tires and
wheels with 235/70 16s on 7 inch rims has reduced the tendancy to spin
SIGNIFICANTLY

[Jim Wilkins]

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message news:***@4ax.com...

My '96Ranger 4 liter 5 speed was my first "limited slip" vehicle.
SZtill have it at 392000km and still love it - but the first thing
that caught my attention was that when you got the rear wheels
spinning is you lost your "rudder". The non-spinner with an open rear
end keeps the vehicle going more or less in a straight line. When both
are spinning the rear end pretty much goes wherever it wants!!!...
------------------------------

The same happens to my 91 Ranger's light rear end on ice even without
limited slip. Dirt (and ice) biking gave me the instinctive reflexes to stay
in control with the rear wheels flopping around. Ice on the road isn't
limited to storms, melt water from snow banks freezes when the sun goes
down.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Clare Snyder
My '96Ranger 4 liter 5 speed was my first "limited slip" vehicle.
SZtill have it at 392000km and still love it - but the first thing
that caught my attention was that when you got the rear wheels
spinning is you lost your "rudder". The non-spinner with an open rear
end keeps the vehicle going more or less in a straight line. When both
are spinning the rear end pretty much goes wherever it wants!!!...
------------------------------
The same happens to my 91 Ranger's light rear end on ice even without
limited slip. Dirt (and ice) biking gave me the instinctive reflexes to
stay in control with the rear wheels flopping around. Ice on the road
isn't limited to storms, melt water from snow banks freezes when the sun
goes down.

Pickup trucks in general (and some cars) are notoriously bad in dirt,
sand, or maybe slippery stuff due to the lack of weight on the rear
axle. The addition of as little as a couple hundred pounds over the
axle makes a huge difference. I know this first hand. My station wagon
was better in the sand (with similar size tires) than most empty pickup
trucks. My first car was a very light 67 Ford Cortina (English Ford),
It was intended as a "dune buggy" by a previous owner who installed 60s
on the front and 50s on the rear. It was terrible until I dropped a
couple bags of concrete in the trunk. It didn't magically turn it into
a dune buggy, but it was pretty good after that.

Crew cabs tend to have better weight distribution, but that is offset by
increased overall weight. Add some decent width tires and they aren't
to bad in the sand.

[Jim Wilkins]

Post by Clare Snyder
My '96Ranger 4 liter 5 speed was my first "limited slip" vehicle.
SZtill have it at 392000km and still love it - but the first thing
that caught my attention was that when you got the rear wheels
spinning is you lost your "rudder". The non-spinner with an open rear
end keeps the vehicle going more or less in a straight line. When both
are spinning the rear end pretty much goes wherever it wants!!!...
------------------------------
The same happens to my 91 Ranger's light rear end on ice even without
limited slip. Dirt (and ice) biking gave me the instinctive reflexes to
stay in control with the rear wheels flopping around. Ice on the road
isn't limited to storms, melt water from snow banks freezes when the sun
goes down.

Pickup trucks in general (and some cars) are notoriously bad in dirt,
sand, or maybe slippery stuff due to the lack of weight on the rear
axle. The addition of as little as a couple hundred pounds over the
axle makes a huge difference. I know this first hand. My station wagon
was better in the sand (with similar size tires) than most empty pickup
trucks. My first car was a very light 67 Ford Cortina (English Ford),
It was intended as a "dune buggy" by a previous owner who installed 60s
on the front and 50s on the rear. It was terrible until I dropped a
couple bags of concrete in the trunk. It didn't magically turn it into
a dune buggy, but it was pretty good after that.

Crew cabs tend to have better weight distribution, but that is offset by
increased overall weight. Add some decent width tires and they aren't
to bad in the sand.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
When I wanted to play in the sand I rode my Suzuki 185 with trials tire that
behaved well on the road getting there. While it and I weren't competitive I
could at least finish the long Enduro runs the motorcycle club I belonged to
hosted, and struggle through the Trials (stunt) events. I practiced for
their ice racing and could do at 10 MPH what good riders could at 60.

The Ranger fit narrow forest trails better than a full sized pickup but not
nearly as well as the bike which could handle everything from deer paths to
the Interstate. The tires didn't tear up the ground and cause erosion like
knobbies, which was fine with me as I prefer to 'tread lightly' when
exploring and camping, which was Club policy to keep areas open to us. The
Ranger was fine for collecting firewood until I had cut everything within
reach of the trails, then I inherited a garden tractor that pulled a
single-width snowmobile trailer between the trees.

Weighting the back is common practice here though the weight can be a safety
hazard in a collision. I was commuting in stop-and-go-fast bumper-to-bumper
Boston area traffic so the risk was high. Every morning the news shows
several roads blocked by crashes.

https://country1025.com/2023/12/boston-named-4th-worst-driving-city-in-us-boston-drivers-thats-better-than-we-thought/
I agree about NYC being worse, though not by much. Boston driving habits
continue all over the extensive suburbs where the high tech jobs are. German
city traffic was as dense but perhaps not quite as rude, in Boston obeying
stop signs and red lights marks you as a tourist.

The Ranger's 4WD locks the front and rear axles together so the tires skid
during turns on dry pavement, and the dealership told me from a customer's
experience that leaving it in 4WD will wear out the drivetrain in 20,000
miles. In mostly 2WD the OEM lubed-for-(their)-life driveshaft U joints wore
or corroded loose just after the warranty expired. In sunny winter weather
the road can alternate between sunny dry and shaded ice which the system
can't really handle, especially at icy corners. The motorized 4WD engagement
responds too slowly.

My bad weather solution was a Honda CRV with full time AWD and much more
passenger and enclosed cargo space for elderly parents, luggage and a
wheelchair. The first generation CRV was a Land Rover body design with
decent off road (snowmobile trail) capability. Land Rover sold it as the
identical-looking Freelander, with a BMW drive train. I claim that the large
windows are to better view the hungry lions circling outside. There is a 12V
outlet in the back for the powered cooler you need in the Kalahari, a
folding picnic table as the hatch area floor and a tub for the kitchen sink
under it. Owners who drive a lot get 300,000 miles from them before they
rust through, I welded patches in the holes and kept going. It gave me 20
trouble-free years before the rubber and plastic parts all began to fail.

Michelin Arctic Alpins let the car drive on ice nearly as surely as dry
pavement. Their downsides are more rapid wear of the soft rubber compound
and hydroplaning on deep slush or water. The car is stable sliding and stays
pointing ahead, which makes it safer but less fun to play in, no more
bootlegger turns.
jsw

[Jim Wilkins]

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:vfiojc$3nm5s$***@dont-email.me...
...the bike which could handle everything from deer paths to
the Interstate.
----------------------------------

Deer paths are fairly easy to follow, they may be able to jump 8 feet but
they walk around larger fallen logs which concentrates their tracks at the
ends. Their hooves chip the rotted wood from smaller fallen logs which also
marks where they cross.

I spent the morning hoisting an 8' x 12' wooden shed high enough for the
owner to back his construction equipment trailer under it with his New
Holland tractor. This is an area where urban shades into rural. We slid long
oak 6x6 timbers from my sawmill under it and hoisted it with my tripods and
chain hoists, one end at a time with 6x6 cribbing underneath just in case,
keeping the siding level to avoid twisting it.

[Leon Fisk]

On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 12:43:17 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <***@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>

We slid long oak 6x6 timbers from my sawmill under it and
hoisted it with my tripods...

Nice work!

Used tripod style camper jacks many years ago to lift a small granary
high enough to get a trailer under. Didn't have to disassemble then for
the move. Worked a treat! Similar to these Pickup Camper Jacks:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256612394899

[Jim Wilkins]

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:vfjb2n$3qpog$***@dont-email.me...

On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 12:43:17 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <***@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>

We slid long oak 6x6 timbers from my sawmill under it and
hoisted it with my tripods...

Nice work!

Used tripod style camper jacks many years ago to lift a small granary
high enough to get a trailer under. Didn't have to disassemble then for
the move. Worked a treat! Similar to these Pickup Camper Jacks:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256612394899
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

--------------------------------------------
For that price it must be excellent! I use this type under the tongue of my
log splitter:
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/etrailer/TJ01RT.html?
I extend it by putting my foot on the base and lifting the tongue, but it
does have a way to be jacked up and down with a rod through the holes.

We moved the shed to its new location without any injury or property damage,
so this was a good day.

It would be nice to own a tractor loader, perhaps nicer to have a neighbor
who bought and maintains one. He's also restoring an older Chevy so I pay
attention to the discussions here. He says a swap for a 5 or 6 liter LS
engine has become the hot street setup.

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Clare Snyder
My '96Ranger 4 liter 5 speed was my first "limited slip" vehicle.
SZtill have it at 392000km and still love it - but the first thing
that caught my attention was that when you got the rear wheels
spinning is you lost your "rudder". The non-spinner with an open rear
end keeps the vehicle going more or less in a straight line. When both
are spinning the rear end pretty much goes wherever it wants!!!...
------------------------------
The same happens to my 91 Ranger's light rear end on ice even without
limited slip. Dirt (and ice) biking gave me the instinctive reflexes to
stay in control with the rear wheels flopping around. Ice on the road
isn't limited to storms, melt water from snow banks freezes when the sun
goes down.

Pickup trucks in general (and some cars) are notoriously bad in dirt,
sand, or maybe slippery stuff due to the lack of weight on the rear
axle. The addition of as little as a couple hundred pounds over the
axle makes a huge difference. I know this first hand. My station wagon
was better in the sand (with similar size tires) than most empty pickup
trucks. My first car was a very light 67 Ford Cortina (English Ford),
It was intended as a "dune buggy" by a previous owner who installed 60s
on the front and 50s on the rear. It was terrible until I dropped a
couple bags of concrete in the trunk. It didn't magically turn it into
a dune buggy, but it was pretty good after that.
Crew cabs tend to have better weight distribution, but that is offset by
increased overall weight. Add some decent width tires and they aren't
to bad in the sand.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

My little Ranger has a fiberglass cap, plastic bed liner and heavy
rubber mat totalling almost 300 lbs permanently installed. On ice, you
are right (on a slight slope it can go sideways with no power applied
- posi or no makes no difference. Howver in snow or sand, or wet
pavement - a "one wheel peel" goes pretty straight, while a "2 wheel
peel" can go in circles. My old Fargo had an open dif and less weight
than the Ranger, and althogh there were times it would not get up the
slippery driveway (even just wet pavement could be a challenge) it
NEVER went sideways under accelleration. I can pretty easily put the
ranger sideways on wet pavement - not to mention loose gravel or sand
(or wet grass). Never had that problem with my open-diff rear wheel
drive Darts, Valiants, Ramblers, or Coronet (sedans or wagons) or the
MGB, TR7, Sunbeam Alpine or other rear wheel drive oddities I've
driven. The "non-friven" wheel makes a pretty effective rudder on
surfaces with any reasonable amount of friction - and you loose that
"rudder" with a good posi or a "locker"