Struck Coin Blanks ???

[Bob La Londe]

Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).

I started writing with two questions in mind.

Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

I forgot the other question, so my second question is what question (or
questions) did I forget to ask? Maybe what alloy would best? I suspect
an annealed copper alloy of some kind. Many an amusement facility used
to have a machine that would take your penny (and a dollar) and roll
your penny into a souvenir key tag back in the days when pennies were
still copper.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vi814m$5o93$***@dont-email.me...

Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).

I started writing with two questions in mind.

Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

I forgot the other question, so my second question is what question (or
questions) did I forget to ask? Maybe what alloy would best? I suspect
an annealed copper alloy of some kind. Many an amusement facility used
to have a machine that would take your penny (and a dollar) and roll
your penny into a souvenir key tag back in the days when pennies were
still copper.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Jim Wilkins
-------------------------------
Search for "challenge coins"

I am aware. I've actually spent a bit of time researching them already.
I have seen over priced blanks on the eCommerce flea markets as
indicated already, and I have found plenty of people selling coins, but
I have not found what I am looking for.

[Joe Gwinn]

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.

Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?

.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

Joe

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.

Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Shop press will do it. Even a good arbour press. Cycle time is slow
doing onezies ---

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Shop press will do it. Even a good arbour press. Cycle time is slow
doing onezies ---

I am aware that it will depend on die design. I have a 6 ton arbor
press, and I think I would be hesitant to think it would manage a fairly
detailed die impression, but I have used it for lots of other things
including punching round holes in thin sheet metal. I've also got a 12
ton and a 20 ton shop press. Both are air over hydraulic, and actually
quite slow. In the field at the "faire" a drop hammer is used. a
relatively crude one.

"...a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance fair (or faire if
you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a heavy weight on it
to strike a souvenir coin..."

I think if I follow through with this I'll stick with a drop hammer or a
trip hammer until production required a faster process.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins.  I can certainly make
the dies.
    4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it
will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins.  I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand
for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide.  I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price?  Not the 10-20
on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-
with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start.  Unfortunately they also sell end product
which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing.  Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea.  I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped.  I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay.  My end goal is mostly
for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project.  A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies.  Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth
while.  Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything.  At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

   Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum,
copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

I design some punch dies years ago.  Hadn't even considered it for this.
  Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget.  I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Shop press will do it. Even a good arbour  press. Cycle time is slow
doing onezies ---

I am aware that it will depend on die design.  I have a 6 ton arbor
press, and I think I would be hesitant to think it would manage a fairly
detailed die impression, but I have used it for lots of other things
including punching round holes in thin sheet metal.  I've also got a 12
ton and a 20 ton shop press.  Both are air over hydraulic, and actually
quite slow.  In the field at the "faire" a drop hammer is used.  a
relatively crude one.
"...a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance fair (or faire if
you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a heavy weight on it
to strike a souvenir coin..."
I think if I follow through with this I'll stick with a drop hammer or a
trip hammer until production required a faster process.

Some years back I made some press dies for a company in Ukraine that was
making "tea cakes" No, not cakes to be eaten with tea. Hard compressed
cakes of tea. On the larger dies they were using a 100 ton press to
compress the tea. They consisted of a base, box, and "stamp" that left
a raised impression (embossment?) on the finished tea cake. Scorpion,
bull, and some other things. I forget. I made them in several sizes.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vi8a8s$7b72$***@dont-email.me...

I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.

Bob La Londe
----------------------------

I've measured up to 2000 Lbs of compression in my milling vise. That was a
test of the bearing load an oak rafter could withstand on a joist hanger
without compressing (much). The force on the handle was more than I normally
need but still one-handed.

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Or find someone with an ironworker you can borrow or rent time on.
Need to modify the standard ironworker punch by grinding off the "nib"
or you will need to press out the "dimple"
I can't remember the name of the machine several local fabricators
used - for punching, notching, pressing louvers,etc.
With a square punch they could basically "nibble" slots in angle iron
or plate or notch corners in sheet or plate. I think it was called a
"strippit"?. It could punch 1 1/2 inch holes in 3/16" mild steel or
stainless all day. The old ones were mechanical flywheel punches then
they switched to hydraulics. The one mechanical one I was familiar
with was made about 1969 and was still punching away in the early
2000s. The secret was to pretend the 30 or 40 ton press was only a 20
and it would last forever.

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Or find someone with an ironworker you can borrow or rent time on.
Need to modify the standard ironworker punch by grinding off the "nib"
or you will need to press out the "dimple"
I can't remember the name of the machine several local fabricators
used - for punching, notching, pressing louvers,etc.
With a square punch they could basically "nibble" slots in angle iron
or plate or notch corners in sheet or plate. I think it was called a
"strippit"?. It could punch 1 1/2 inch holes in 3/16" mild steel or
stainless all day. The old ones were mechanical flywheel punches then
they switched to hydraulics. The one mechanical one I was familiar
with was made about 1969 and was still punching away in the early
2000s. The secret was to pretend the 30 or 40 ton press was only a 20
and it would last forever.

The strippit was also used as an embossing press IIRC

[Joe Gwinn]

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.

The old-time answer to this is a Fly Press, which are still used.

Joe

[David Billington]

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>

That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.

Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.

Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.

I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.

Post by Joe Gwinn
Joe

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.

The old-time answer to this is a Fly Press, which are still used.
Joe

I was going to suggest one also but as I understand it they're not that
common in the US, here in the UK they're quite common. I have one and
use it from time to time to punch copper blanks for enamelling, I set-up
the tooling so I can quickly punch the blanks one after another from a
copper strip. For the coin stamping I was thinking of a drop stamp. An
image here https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5757303 from the Birmingham
Jewellery Quarter Museum, formerly Smith and Pepper
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_and_Pepper . Having toured the
museum I didn't see those drop stamps, they're the small ones, but I saw
a large one maybe 15' (4.5m) high  and IIRC the side guides were railway
track but I can't find an image of it.

[Joe Gwinn]

[snip]

Post by David Billington

Post by Joe Gwinn

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Clare Snyder

Post by Bob La Londe
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.

I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.

The old-time answer to this is a Fly Press, which are still used.
Joe

I was going to suggest one also but as I understand it they're not that
common in the US, here in the UK they're quite common.

They are not uncommon here, and I see them turning up around old
industrial areas all the time. They basically do not wear out.

I just checked eBay in the US, had 148 hits, some for presses, some
for press tooling. Used machinery peddlers also list them, likely
with better prices than eBay.

Post by David Billington
I have one and
use it from time to time to punch copper blanks for enamelling, I set-up
the tooling so I can quickly punch the blanks one after another from a
copper strip. For the coin stamping I was thinking of a drop stamp. An
image here <https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5757303> from the Birmingham
Jewellery Quarter Museum, formerly Smith and Pepper
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_and_Pepper>. Having toured the
museum I didn't see those drop stamps, they're the small ones, but I saw
a large one maybe 15' (4.5m) high  and IIRC the side guides were railway
track but I can't find an image of it.

Those were the days. If there were drop hammers, there would be drop
presses as well.

Joe Gwinn

[b***@www.zefox.net]

Post by Bob La Londe
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Maybe ask non-ferrous scrap buyers if they'll sell knockouts
(donut holes) from punched parts for a little over scrap price?

hth,

bob prohaska

Post by Bob La Londe
I forgot the other question, so my second question is what question (or
questions) did I forget to ask? Maybe what alloy would best? I suspect
an annealed copper alloy of some kind. Many an amusement facility used
to have a machine that would take your penny (and a dollar) and roll
your penny into a souvenir key tag back in the days when pennies were
still copper.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by b***@www.zefox.net

Post by Bob La Londe
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Maybe ask non-ferrous scrap buyers if they'll sell knockouts
(donut holes) from punched parts for a little over scrap price?
hth,
bob prohaska

Post by Bob La Londe
I forgot the other question, so my second question is what question (or
questions) did I forget to ask? Maybe what alloy would best? I suspect
an annealed copper alloy of some kind. Many an amusement facility used
to have a machine that would take your penny (and a dollar) and roll
your penny into a souvenir key tag back in the days when pennies were
still copper.

I don't think we have any local manufacturers generating that kind of
waste. I think Barco metal Stamping closed up some years ago, and the
only did light gage for things like construction light fixtures. Still
next time I take a load of something over to Yuma Recycling I guess I
can ask.

[b***@www.zefox.net]

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by b***@www.zefox.net
Maybe ask non-ferrous scrap buyers if they'll sell knockouts
(donut holes) from punched parts for a little over scrap price?

I don't think we have any local manufacturers generating that kind of
waste.

I was thinking that finding the generator of the scrap would be hard,
but finding dealers who might resell would be easier. There used to be
a few businesses that sold industrial surplus and offcuts for re-use,
but I can't find anything of the kind now. Admittedly I haven't looked
in at least a decade. The world has changed a lot in the past few years.

I expected non-local, but it looks like non-existent is the rule.

Sorry for the bum steer,

bob prohaska

[Bob La Londe]

Post by b***@www.zefox.net

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by b***@www.zefox.net
Maybe ask non-ferrous scrap buyers if they'll sell knockouts
(donut holes) from punched parts for a little over scrap price?

I don't think we have any local manufacturers generating that kind of
waste.

I was thinking that finding the generator of the scrap would be hard,
but finding dealers who might resell would be easier. There used to be
a few businesses that sold industrial surplus and offcuts for re-use,
but I can't find anything of the kind now. Admittedly I haven't looked
in at least a decade. The world has changed a lot in the past few years.
I expected non-local, but it looks like non-existent is the rule.
Sorry for the bum steer,
bob prohaska

Its not at all a bum steer. Might not work for me (it might) but its a
good idea.

[Peter Fairbrother]

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins.  I can certainly make the dies.
 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins.  I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide.  I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price?  Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Ouch, At those prices it would be cheaper to use real money...

Peter Fairbrother

[Jim Wilkins]

"Peter Fairbrother" wrote in message news:vi96p6$em69$***@dont-email.me...
...
Ouch, At those prices it would be cheaper to use real money...

Peter Fairbrother
-------------------------------

I wonder if the stamping operation would adequately flatten blanks cut with
a Greenlee punch, guided to not need the center screw. They cut a larger
blank with less force than flat-faced punches. The points could be rounded
as much as the press allows to reduce distortion.

One company shop had a bench press that located and clamped the lower die
between four horizontal setscrews. The punch fit into a round hole in the
ram, the square-sided die had two beveled edges for the setscrews. At first
it was difficult for me to align but it was very versatile and could punch
the square and D shapes needed in electronics.

The punch had a slight taper above the parallel section which would hold the
die centered while I adjusted the setscrews. If I had to convert an arbor
press that might be an easy way to fixture a die that could be hardened and
then surface ground. The Lindsay book on making punches and dies suggests
making and hardening the punch first, then using it to finish the die before
hardening it.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Peter Fairbrother
...
Ouch, At those prices it would be cheaper to use real money...
Peter Fairbrother
-------------------------------
I wonder if the stamping operation would adequately flatten blanks cut
with a Greenlee punch, guided to not need the center screw. They cut a
larger blank with less force than flat-faced punches. The points could
be rounded as much as the press allows to reduce distortion.
One company shop had a bench press that located and clamped the lower
die between four horizontal setscrews. The punch fit into a round hole
in the ram, the square-sided die had two beveled edges for the
setscrews. At first it was difficult for me to align but it was very
versatile and could punch the square and D shapes needed in electronics.
The punch had a slight taper above the parallel section which would hold
the die centered while I adjusted the setscrews. If I had to convert an
arbor press that might be an easy way to fixture a die that could be
hardened and then surface ground. The Lindsay book on making punches and
dies suggests making and hardening the punch first, then using it to
finish the die before hardening it.

I do have both hydraulic (import) and manual (Greenlee) slug busters. I
had not thought of using them as a punch and die or as a die for another
punch. Its not at all a bad idea. The advantage to purpose built is it
can be made so the slug drops free. A pair of pliers is often required
to remove the slug from a slug buster.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:viafod$lp70$***@dont-email.me...

I do have both hydraulic (import) and manual (Greenlee) slug busters. I
had not thought of using them as a punch and die or as a die for another
punch. Its not at all a bad idea. The advantage to purpose built is it
can be made so the slug drops free. A pair of pliers is often required
to remove the slug from a slug buster.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
-----------------------

I was thinking of the older roof shaped punches that make one piece slugs,
perhaps with the points rounded until the slug is acceptable when flattened.
The dies could have a slug remover punch pass through the mounting bolt.
Since both punch and die have center holes adapting them to an arbor press
should be simpler than making and hardening a punch and die.

I save the slugs to flatten and use as oversized washers.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Peter Fairbrother

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop
a heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back
of my mind the idea to strike my own coins.  I can certainly make the
dies.   4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it
will harden "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few
hundred to a couple thousand coins.  I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on
hand for those cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide.
I even have a propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for
tempering (although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price?  Not the 10-20 on
Ebay or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Ouch, At those prices it would be cheaper to use real money...
Peter Fairbrother

... and at those prices almost exclusively shipped from China.

[Peter Fairbrother]

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Peter Fairbrother

Post by Bob La Londe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop
a heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back
of my mind the idea to strike my own coins.  I can certainly make the
dies.   4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it
will harden "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few
hundred to a couple thousand coins.  I also keep a bit of O1 and W1
on hand for those cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or
carbide. I even have a propane forge in the back along with a toaster
oven for tempering (although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price?  Not the 10-20 on
Ebay or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.

Ouch, At those prices it would be cheaper to use real money...
Peter Fairbrother

... and at those prices almost exclusively shipped from China.

Hmm, be a hecka lot more once Trump's in.

But I was thinking of using coins for blanks. Here in the UK post 1946
75/25 cupronickel florins are about 20p each in 1,000 lots - pre 1920
92% (sterling) silver ones can be had for about £11, 1920 to 50% silver
ones are about £5.

Florins are old pre-decimal currency, once worth 2/- (2 shillings) or
10p. 28mm diameter, weigh 11.3 grams. There are also the slightly larger
half-crowns.

You would have to anneal the cupronickel ones.

I don't know whether the US has anything similar. Or Canada, or Mexico...

Peter Fairbrother

[Jim Wilkins]

"Peter Fairbrother" wrote in message news:vic5fr$11l5i$***@dont-email.me...

But I was thinking of using coins for blanks. Here in the UK post 1946
75/25 cupronickel florins are about 20p each in 1,000 lots - pre 1920
92% (sterling) silver ones can be had for about £11, 1920 to 50% silver
ones are about £5.

Florins are old pre-decimal currency, once worth 2/- (2 shillings) or
10p. 28mm diameter, weigh 11.3 grams. There are also the slightly larger
half-crowns.

You would have to anneal the cupronickel ones.

I don't know whether the US has anything similar. Or Canada, or Mexico...

Peter Fairbrother
------------------------------
US currency has been decimal from the beginning. Canada changed from British
to US denominations in the middle 1800's.
https://www.littletoncoin.com/shop/Guide-To-United-States-Coins?

Pennies changed from 95% copper to plated zinc in 1982.