Discussion:
Dirty Hands Clean Money
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Bob La Londe
2024-07-04 21:19:42 UTC
Permalink
Converted an R8 tool rack into a 4MT tool rack.

First ten seconds and last minute is probably all you need to see to get
it.

https://rumble.com/v55kp8g-diy-4mt-tool-rack-converted-from-r8...-really.html?mref=1sqt4y&mc=42lue
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--
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Bob La Londe
2024-07-07 16:50:25 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bob La Londe
Converted an R8 tool rack into a 4MT tool rack.
First ten seconds and last minute is probably all you need to see to get
it.
https://rumble.com/v55kp8g-diy-4mt-tool-rack-converted-from-r8...-really.html?mref=1sqt4y&mc=42lue
Okay... the short version
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JuFTG2WNQ_I
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--
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Jim Wilkins
2024-07-07 19:43:36 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bob La Londe
Converted an R8 tool rack into a 4MT tool rack.
First ten seconds and last minute is probably all you need to see to get
it.
https://rumble.com/v55kp8g-diy-4mt-tool-rack-converted-from-r8...-really.html?mref=1sqt4y&mc=42lue
Okay... the short version
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JuFTG2WNQ_I
Bob La Londe

----------------------
Nice 6-jaw without visible runout, what kind?

Mine is a Sanou CME, which required a fair amount of touch-up and may never
be "done" as I use a Set-Tru 3-jaw for accuracy. My budget 6-jaws are good
enough for jobs like that which don't need high precision, i.e. most of what
I do for myself.
Bob La Londe
2024-07-07 22:05:20 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bob La Londe
Post by Bob La Londe
Converted an R8 tool rack into a 4MT tool rack.
First ten seconds and last minute is probably all you need to see to
get it.
https://rumble.com/v55kp8g-diy-4mt-tool-rack-converted-from-r8...-really.html?mref=1sqt4y&mc=42lue
Okay... the short version
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JuFTG2WNQ_I
Bob La Londe
----------------------
Nice 6-jaw without visible runout, what kind?
Mine is a Sanou CME, which required a fair amount of touch-up and may
never be "done" as I use a Set-Tru 3-jaw for accuracy. My budget 6-jaws
are good enough for jobs like that which don't need high precision, i.e.
most of what I do for myself.
It is a Shars "Set-Tru" style. I like it better than the Bison 4 jaw.
It does have some run-out depending on the size of the stock. Its only
near zero at whatever stock size you dialed it in at. I think I last
zeroed at with a 3/4 gage pin. Gets me within "about 3-4 tenths
(0.0003-0.0004) when its running the size stock its zeroed to. The
spindle nose only seems to be ground to about .0003 so that's not
horrible.

It wasn't crazy expensive, but it wasn't cheap import cheap either. I
think it was around $800-900 (+/-) with the D1-5 back plate.

I'd probably change chucks more often if they weren't so heavy and
awkward. I have an electric chair lift I have been thinking about
converting into a bench crane for that. I don't think I have a 12V
power supply on the shelf big enough for it though.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--
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www.avg.com
Jim Wilkins
2024-07-08 00:18:16 UTC
Permalink
Post by Jim Wilkins
Nice 6-jaw without visible runout, what kind?
It is a Shars "Set-Tru" style. I like it better than the Bison 4 jaw.
It does have some run-out depending on the size of the stock. Its only
near zero at whatever stock size you dialed it in at. I think I last
zeroed at with a 3/4 gage pin. Gets me within "about 3-4 tenths
(0.0003-0.0004) when its running the size stock its zeroed to. The
spindle nose only seems to be ground to about .0003 so that's not
horrible.

It wasn't crazy expensive, but it wasn't cheap import cheap either. I
think it was around $800-900 (+/-) with the D1-5 back plate.

I'd probably change chucks more often if they weren't so heavy and
awkward. I have an electric chair lift I have been thinking about
converting into a bench crane for that. I don't think I have a 12V
power supply on the shelf big enough for it though.
Bob La Londe

-----------------------------------------

A 12VDC supply that can be set to 13.6V and won't fry if connected to a
discharged battery could float charge an AGM that can deliver enough current
to operate the hoist.

The power bricks that came with my 12DC refrigerators were set too high for
a battery and overheated when connected to a discharged one so I added these
to limit the output voltage and current. :
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-5-3V-32V-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B078Q1624B/

A 1/4 ton lever chain hoist isn't that expensive and has better fine height
adjustment than an electric hoist. Mine gets quite a bit of use, there's a
lot around the house within its capacity and it needs minimal overhead
clearance. Right now it's on an A frame to stack cut beams and slabs.

I made a wood block to hold my heaviest chuck slightly below spindle height
to install or remove it. Rectangular strips of wood below and above can
align it without the trouble of copying the ways and chuck.
Bob La Londe
2024-07-08 00:40:44 UTC
Permalink
Post by Jim Wilkins
Nice 6-jaw without visible runout, what kind?
It is a Shars "Set-Tru" style.  I like it better than the Bison 4 jaw.
It does have some run-out depending on the size of the stock.  Its only
near zero at whatever stock size you dialed it in at.  I think I last
zeroed at with a 3/4 gage pin.  Gets me within "about 3-4 tenths
(0.0003-0.0004) when its running the size stock its zeroed to.  The
spindle nose only seems to be ground to about .0003 so that's not
horrible.
It wasn't crazy expensive, but it wasn't cheap import cheap either.  I
think it was around $800-900 (+/-) with the D1-5 back plate.
I'd probably change chucks more often if they weren't so heavy and
awkward.  I have an electric chair lift I have been thinking about
converting into a bench crane for that.  I don't think I have a 12V
power supply on the shelf big enough for it though.
Bob La Londe
-----------------------------------------
A 12VDC supply that can be set to 13.6V and won't fry if connected to a
discharged battery could float charge an AGM that can deliver enough
current to operate the hoist.
The power bricks that came with my 12DC refrigerators were set too high
for a battery and overheated when connected to a discharged one so I
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-5-3V-32V-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B078Q1624B/
A 1/4 ton lever chain hoist isn't that expensive and has better fine
height adjustment than an electric hoist. Mine gets quite a bit of use,
there's a lot around the house within its capacity and it needs minimal
overhead clearance. Right now it's on an A frame to stack cut beams and
slabs.
I made a wood block to hold my heaviest chuck slightly below spindle
height to install or remove it. Rectangular strips of wood below and
above can align it without the trouble of copying the ways and chuck.
I haven't seen this particular chair lift operate, but those I have seen
seem to have fine resolution and smooth motion. They aren't like a
commercial/industrial electric winch.

I've got a wide array of lifting things including several cable pullers,
chain fall, etc. I think the chair lift would bolt directly to the top
of the tool cart (the new one) I keep next to the lathe. I might need
to put a load spreader of some kind inside. The odds of the cart EVER
being empty again and the leverage of a chuck causing it to topple are
pretty slim.

The big plus is it would free up the space in my garage where the chair
lift has sat ever since it was given to me without taking up much other
useful space. Hmmm... I might have to check over head clearance. There
is a shelf above the lathe.

I'm terrible with batteries. I have a hard time keeping good batteries
in my cars and boats. In fact two of the batteries out of one of my
boats are setting on the floor from where I unloaded them weeks ago
after using them to run a winch out in the field. I'd be quite happy to
have a cord between the chair lift and the wall.

Yeah, I know. Someday I may need that chair lift for a chair, but I
hope that's going to be a while.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com
Bob La Londe
2024-07-08 00:51:32 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bob La Londe
Post by Jim Wilkins
Nice 6-jaw without visible runout, what kind?
It is a Shars "Set-Tru" style.  I like it better than the Bison 4 jaw.
It does have some run-out depending on the size of the stock.  Its only
near zero at whatever stock size you dialed it in at.  I think I last
zeroed at with a 3/4 gage pin.  Gets me within "about 3-4 tenths
(0.0003-0.0004) when its running the size stock its zeroed to.  The
spindle nose only seems to be ground to about .0003 so that's not
horrible.
It wasn't crazy expensive, but it wasn't cheap import cheap either.  I
think it was around $800-900 (+/-) with the D1-5 back plate.
I'd probably change chucks more often if they weren't so heavy and
awkward.  I have an electric chair lift I have been thinking about
converting into a bench crane for that.  I don't think I have a 12V
power supply on the shelf big enough for it though.
Bob La Londe
-----------------------------------------
A 12VDC supply that can be set to 13.6V and won't fry if connected to
a discharged battery could float charge an AGM that can deliver enough
current to operate the hoist.
The power bricks that came with my 12DC refrigerators were set too
high for a battery and overheated when connected to a discharged one
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-5-3V-32V-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B078Q1624B/
A 1/4 ton lever chain hoist isn't that expensive and has better fine
height adjustment than an electric hoist. Mine gets quite a bit of
use, there's a lot around the house within its capacity and it needs
minimal overhead clearance. Right now it's on an A frame to stack cut
beams and slabs.
I made a wood block to hold my heaviest chuck slightly below spindle
height to install or remove it. Rectangular strips of wood below and
above can align it without the trouble of copying the ways and chuck.
I haven't seen this particular chair lift operate, but those I have seen
seem to have fine resolution and smooth motion.  They aren't like a
commercial/industrial electric winch.
I've got a wide array of lifting things including several cable pullers,
chain fall, etc.  I think the chair lift would bolt directly to the top
of the tool cart (the new one) I keep next to the lathe.  I might need
to put a load spreader of some kind inside.  The odds of the cart EVER
being empty again and the leverage of a chuck causing it to topple are
pretty slim.
The big plus is it would free up the space in my garage where the chair
lift has sat ever since it was given to me without taking up much other
useful space.  Hmmm... I might have to check over head clearance.  There
is a shelf above the lathe.
I'm terrible with batteries.  I have a hard time keeping good batteries
in my cars and boats.  In fact two of the batteries out of one of my
boats are setting on the floor from where I unloaded them weeks ago
after using them to run a winch out in the field.  I'd be quite happy to
have a cord between the chair lift and the wall.
Yeah, I know.  Someday I may need that chair lift for a chair, but I
hope that's going to be a while.
I be fair, most of the time I need to move something that's less than
150 lbs and its not to awkward I just muscle it. Yeah, I use a lift to
pull out compressor out of the middle of a condensing unit or something
like that, but my anvil (only 130 lbs), got placed on its "stump" by
hand. I tend to only use a lifting device if its really convenient, and
setting it up to do the job will take less time than to just do it, or
if its just beyond my ability. I do hate putting the 90-100ish lb vises
on and off the mill table, because I have to reach out with them. Puts
a lot of strain on my arms and a little on my back. Actually those
vises were my first thought for the chair lift when I got it. Clamp
(made to hook under the jaw) a hook eye in the vise jaws, lift, and swing.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com
Jim Wilkins
2024-07-08 02:36:51 UTC
Permalink
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v6fd6k$i57l$***@dont-email.me...
...
I do hate putting the 90-100ish lb vises
on and off the mill table, because I have to reach out with them. Puts
a lot of strain on my arms and a little on my back. Actually those
vises were my first thought for the chair lift when I got it. Clamp
(made to hook under the jaw) a hook eye in the vise jaws, lift, and swing.
Bob La Londe

----------------------------

I was recently convinced to try Hammerlocks to make a 3-way chain sling that
wasn't working out with shackles, and they are the right solution. The pin
can be pressed in with a C clamp while the assembly is in its place on the
equipment. The 5/16" size I bought is rated for 5700 Lbs.

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