Another Silly Crane

[Bob La Londe]

https://www.vevor.com/electric-wire-rope-hoist-c_10453/vevor-electric-hoist-support-arm-1320-lbs-max-load-capacity-electric-hoist-holder-swing-arm-with-pole-steel-hoist-frame-180-swivel-scaffold-hoist-lifting-arm-winch-hoist-arm-for-workshop-garage-p_010680499173

The first thing I note is its going to be very limited by the vertical
you bolt it to. I'm not clear how long the arm is, and the support in
tension may be why its rated as high as it is. The brace won't buckle
in tension.

I'd like to have a jib crane just inside a 12'H x 10'W overhead door.
Its a silly reason. It might be handy for a few things, but the main
one is to reach out side and lift the 5th wheel companion (locks into my
under bed goose neck hitch) out of the bed of the truck, swing it inside
and set it on a relatively high shelf out of the way.

This toy won't do it, but it brings to mind that I may be way over
thinking how much steel is required for what I want to do with one.
1300 lbs is a lot. More than a big block V8. More than a 250HP
outboard. A lot more than a 5th wheel companion hitch. More than a
field harvest citrus box full of folding tables or folding chairs.

The big negative for me for this application is the brace in tension
(strut?) reduces the maximum vertical height.

This does not take away my desire for a gantry crane. It would just
fill a very small niche in the shop.

I actually might be interested in the one in the link above for working
over my manual mill and lathe. Or even a lighter version. The 100lb
vise I sometimes lift on and off the mill table, and the awkward lathe
chucks I don't change often for fear of dinging the ways would certainly
justify 71.99.

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Bob La Londe
https://www.vevor.com/electric-wire-rope-hoist-c_10453/vevor-electric-hoist-support-arm-1320-lbs-max-load-capacity-electric-hoist-holder-swing-arm-with-pole-steel-hoist-frame-180-swivel-scaffold-hoist-lifting-arm-winch-hoist-arm-for-workshop-garage-p_010680499173
The first thing I note is its going to be very limited by the vertical
you bolt it to. I'm not clear how long the arm is, and the support in
tension may be why its rated as high as it is. The brace won't buckle
in tension.
I'd like to have a jib crane just inside a 12'H x 10'W overhead door.
Its a silly reason. It might be handy for a few things, but the main
one is to reach out side and lift the 5th wheel companion (locks into my
under bed goose neck hitch) out of the bed of the truck, swing it inside
and set it on a relatively high shelf out of the way.
This toy won't do it, but it brings to mind that I may be way over
thinking how much steel is required for what I want to do with one.
1300 lbs is a lot. More than a big block V8. More than a 250HP
outboard. A lot more than a 5th wheel companion hitch. More than a
field harvest citrus box full of folding tables or folding chairs.
The big negative for me for this application is the brace in tension
(strut?) reduces the maximum vertical height.
This does not take away my desire for a gantry crane. It would just
fill a very small niche in the shop.
I actually might be interested in the one in the link above for working
over my manual mill and lathe. Or even a lighter version. The 100lb
vise I sometimes lift on and off the mill table, and the awkward lathe
chucks I don't change often for fear of dinging the ways would certainly
justify 71.99.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

A bit of a dangerous wonky design. There is no compression member at
the pivot end of the triangle, so any load on the extended arm pivots
at the angle brace, putting a lifting moment at the pivot, which is
only restrained by the shear strength of the cotter pin ( and the
bending moment of the outer tube on the inner tube - which at the very
least will cause a binding situation)
By inverting the lower pivot and resting the arm on the lower bracket
the arm is properly restrained in both directions, not depending on he
cotter pin ( and jamming force of the outer tube on the inner tube as
the arm pivots)

MIGHT not prove to be a failure point, but it for sure is NOT a sound
mechanical design!!!!

[Snag]

Post by Bob La Londe
https://www.vevor.com/electric-wire-rope-hoist-c_10453/vevor-electric-hoist-support-arm-1320-lbs-max-load-capacity-electric-hoist-holder-swing-arm-with-pole-steel-hoist-frame-180-swivel-scaffold-hoist-lifting-arm-winch-hoist-arm-for-workshop-garage-p_010680499173
The first thing I note is its going to be very limited by the vertical
you bolt it to.  I'm not clear how long the arm is, and the support in
tension may be why its rated as high as it is.  The brace won't buckle
in tension.
I'd like to have a jib crane just inside a 12'H x 10'W overhead door.
Its a silly reason.  It might be handy for a few things, but the main
one is to reach out side and lift the 5th wheel companion (locks into my
under bed goose neck hitch) out of the bed of the truck, swing it inside
and set it on a relatively high shelf out of the way.
This toy won't do it, but it brings to mind that I may be way over
thinking how much steel is required for what I want to do with one. 1300
lbs is a lot.  More than a big block V8.  More than a 250HP outboard.  A
lot more than a 5th wheel companion hitch.  More than a field harvest
citrus box full of folding tables or folding chairs.
The big negative for me for this application is the brace in tension
(strut?) reduces the maximum vertical height.
This does not take away my desire for a gantry crane.  It would just
fill a very small niche in the shop.
I actually might be interested in the one in the link above for working
over my manual mill and lathe.  Or even a lighter version.  The 100lb
vise I sometimes lift on and off the mill table, and the awkward lathe
chucks I don't change often for fear of dinging the ways would certainly
justify 71.99.

With a hundred dollar budget you can build one with 3X the capacity
... and make a dent in the cost of the winch to power it too .

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vodvr0$1dn6k$***@dont-email.me...

https://www.vevor.com/electric-wire-rope-hoist-c_10453/vevor-electric-hoist-support-arm-1320-lbs-max-load-capacity-electric-hoist-holder-swing-arm-with-pole-steel-hoist-frame-180-swivel-scaffold-hoist-lifting-arm-winch-hoist-arm-for-workshop-garage-p_010680499173

The first thing I note is its going to be very limited by the vertical
you bolt it to. I'm not clear how long the arm is, and the support in
tension may be why its rated as high as it is. The brace won't buckle
in tension.

--------------------------------------

I agree with the others. The 2000 Lb capacity boom on my shop crane is much
more substantial. You are limited by the strength of the building structure.
If you can determine or increase it then figuring the forces in a triangular
brace and the reactions at its mounts is pretty simple, I learned it in high
school AP Physics without calculus.

Size all parts for full load deflection plus a safety factor and make the
joints flexible so they don't suffer unnecessary extra bending stress. The
type of connection determines the "K" in compressive strength formulas, and
a flexible pinned or ball joint is the simplest to consider. That's part of
the objection to the Vevor's pivots. Their pintle and gudgeon style is
appropriate for a rigid boat rudder but not even a garden gate that kids
might swing on. Fork or clevis hinges that hold the hinge pin at both ends
are much better, and in this case should allow for the beam to flex up (beam
bows) or down (brace stretches) at the hinge.

I might support the horizontal beam with Grade 100 chain and add a rope and
pulley to swivel it up out of the way. Then it could be low enough to attach
a heavy hoist without climbing a ladder, and able to be repositioned higher
if necessary. Both are very helpful features of my gantry.

The local logging equipment and chain dealer stocks Grade 100 instead of
Grade 80 because he says the price difference is minimal. They are rated for
overhead use because they are alloy steel that can deform to absorb overload
shocks better than carbon steel lower grades, which may be more brittle.
I've broken 3/8" logging chain. My 1300 Lb HF electric hoist deflects the
gantry beam at startup with less than half load more than at full static
load.

I bought a handful like these locally for less than $5 each.
https://www.amazon.com/hannger-Turnbuckle-Durable-Working-Turnbuckles/dp/B0D2DD7RC9?

On the lightly loaded rising, rotating and tilting solar panel mount I just
built the diagonal bracing turnbuckle clevis attaches to a hole in a thin
bracket that will let the turnbuckle swing up when the panels are tilted
back for summer. It raises to catch the early sun over the roof and lowers
to remove the panels for storms. They are portable folding panels for the
Jackery etc that aren't as weatherproof as fixed panels.

This has been a useful find from Vevor:
https://www.vevor.com/thermal-imaging-camera-c_11961/vevor-infrared-thermal-imager-thermal-camera-ir-resolution-240x180-2-8-lcd-screen-p_010117537355?

[Jim Wilkins]

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:vofk18$1ptvj$***@dont-email.me...

I might support the horizontal beam with Grade 100 chain and add a rope and
pulley to swivel it up out of the way.
--------------------------------

I've previously suggested a boat trailer winch for hoisting and forgot to
mention that they spin dangerously when lowering vertical loads if the
handle slips from your grip. With a rope you can at least use the tiedown
cleat as a friction drag.

The Vestil lift I ordered for Segway had a cable winch with a built-in
lowering brake which I haven't seen available separately.

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/vestil-llw-202058-fw-mobile-steel-lite-load-winch-lifter-with-20-square-platform-and-rolling-handle-500-lb-capacity/736LLW20205.html?

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Jim Wilkins
I might support the horizontal beam with Grade 100 chain and add a rope and
pulley to swivel it up out of the way.
--------------------------------
I've previously suggested a boat trailer winch for hoisting and forgot
to mention that they spin dangerously when lowering vertical loads if
the handle slips from your grip. With a rope you can at least use the
tiedown cleat as a friction drag.
The Vestil lift I ordered for Segway had a cable winch with a built-in
lowering brake which I haven't seen available separately.
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/vestil-llw-202058-fw-mobile-steel-lite-
load-winch-lifter-with-20-square-platform-and-rolling-handle-500-lb-
capacity/736LLW20205.html?

I'm not at all a fan of boat winches for lifting. They do one thing,
and they don't do that all that well. I know. There are a few of them
on trailers out front, along side, and inside my shop right now clipped
to boats.

I have gotten quite good at tying a bowline to affect a field repair of
a broken strap, and I've gone for a swim to recover a boat a couple
times. I'm very familiar with the boat winches.

The lighter cheaper boat winches have steel cables, but many of the
middle weight have nylon straps that all break eventually about an or or
so behind the stitching. I can't recall if they heavier ones on my
dad's old sport fishers have nylon straps or steel cables, but I'll have
to look at them eventually. They are among the things I need to sell
sooner or later.

The handles tend to be relatively flimsy, easily bent, and connected
with a slot onto an oval end shaft with a nut. Often that part comes
apart as well. Some people cringe when I weld a handle back on, but the
weld will outlast the rest of the winch.

No. Boat winches are only marginally not terrible at one thing.

[Jim Wilkins]

... boat winch fault ...

I'm not at all a fan of boat winches for lifting. They do one thing,
and they don't do that all that well. I know. There are a few of them
on trailers out front, along side, and inside my shop right now clipped
to boats.

I have gotten quite good at tying a bowline to affect a field repair of
a broken strap, and I've gone for a swim to recover a boat a couple
times. I'm very familiar with the boat winches.

The lighter cheaper boat winches have steel cables, but many of the
middle weight have nylon straps that all break eventually about an or or
so behind the stitching. I can't recall if they heavier ones on my
dad's old sport fishers have nylon straps or steel cables, but I'll have
to look at them eventually. They are among the things I need to sell
sooner or later.

The handles tend to be relatively flimsy, easily bent, and connected
with a slot onto an oval end shaft with a nut. Often that part comes
apart as well. Some people cringe when I weld a handle back on, but the
weld will outlast the rest of the winch.

No. Boat winches are only marginally not terrible at one thing.

Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
-------------------------------------

I use them for lack of a better inexpensive alternative. Mine are acceptable
after replacing the axles with Grade 8 bolts and better bushings and
aligning the gears. Synthetic winch cable is safer to handle and doesn't
spring loose on the reel. The upgrades are only on loan and can be passed on
after one fails.

I might try the HF with its worm gear lubed with the dry moly grease I
bought for the 6-jaw.

[Bob La Londe]

... boat winch fault ...

I'm not at all a fan of boat winches for lifting.  They do one thing,
and they don't do that all that well.  I know.  There are a few of them
on trailers out front, along side, and inside my shop right now clipped
to boats.
I have gotten quite good at tying a bowline to affect a field repair of
a broken strap, and I've gone for a swim to recover a boat a couple
times.  I'm very familiar with the boat winches.
The lighter cheaper boat winches have steel cables, but many of the
middle weight have nylon straps that all break eventually about an or or
so behind the stitching.  I can't recall if they heavier ones on my
dad's old sport fishers have nylon straps or steel cables, but I'll have
to look at them eventually.  They are among the things I need to sell
sooner or later.
The handles tend to be relatively flimsy, easily bent, and connected
with a slot onto an oval end shaft with a nut.  Often that part comes
apart as well.  Some people cringe when I weld a handle back on, but the
weld will outlast the rest of the winch.
No.  Boat winches are only marginally not terrible at one thing.
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
-------------------------------------
I use them for lack of a better inexpensive alternative. Mine are
acceptable after replacing the axles with Grade 8 bolts and better
bushings and aligning the gears. Synthetic winch cable is safer to
handle and doesn't spring loose on the reel. The upgrades are only on
loan and can be passed on after one fails.
I might try the HF with its worm gear lubed with the dry moly grease I
bought for the 6-jaw.

A come-a-long, while slower, is marginally safer when operated correctly
and it is actually rated for lifting. Yes, they tend to be a little
more expensive, but not prohibitively so. I have used a come-a-long for
things like lifting a burnt-out compressor out the center of a
condensing unit with a straight bar and a ladder. No fear of failure.
I've got a couple of them for such tasks. I also have a couple chain falls.

Heat and UV eats up synthetic winch cable. All the cool kids in the off
road community use the stuff, but all three of my electric
loading/recovery winches have steel cable. I run steel on my electric
recovery/loading winches because I tend to run solo so the only one who
could stupidly stand right next to it is me, and I don't use them all
that often so I would rather they didn't sun rot before the next time I
need it.

Its a choice. Much greater longevity VS some protection against
stupidity. If I did the weekend group trail rides I would switch to
synthetic on my primary off road vehicle.

[Jim Wilkins]

I use [boat winches] for lack of a better inexpensive alternative.

A come-a-long, while slower, is marginally safer when operated correctly
and it is actually rated for lifting. Yes, they tend to be a little
more expensive, but not prohibitively so. I have used a come-a-long for
things like lifting a burnt-out compressor out the center of a
condensing unit with a straight bar and a ladder. No fear of failure.
I've got a couple of them for such tasks. I also have a couple chain falls.

Heat and UV eats up synthetic winch cable. All the cool kids in the off
road community use the stuff, but all three of my electric
loading/recovery winches have steel cable. I run steel on my electric
recovery/loading winches because I tend to run solo so the only one who
could stupidly stand right next to it is me, and I don't use them all
that often so I would rather they didn't sun rot before the next time I
need it.

Its a choice. Much greater longevity VS some protection against
stupidity. If I did the weekend group trail rides I would switch to
synthetic on my primary off road vehicle.

---------------------------------------
Thanks for the info. I bought the synthetic cable for an ATV winch but never
installed it. The boat winch I put it on mostly stays in a shed, and last
summer was under the rain shelter for the gantry and sawmill. It happened
that the track hoisting (not supporting) winch on the sunny end tripod had
steel cable and I did all the gantry track leveling with the shaded
synthetic cable winch. There was a lot of readjustment because after sawing
the lighter logs I upgraded the gantry hardware for two 4000+ lb logs. What
I post about hoisting is from personal experience studying for, designing,
building and using the equipment.

I began logging with generic lever cable pullers, to pull down trees lodged
against others or guide ones likely to be. The cheap ones wore out very
quickly and greasing them made little difference. Replacing the axles with
harder steel bolts and shimming for better alignment partly helped, the
ratchets were next to fail. When I figured out how to join fence posts into
folding tripods to lift firewood logs off the rocky ground and spare my back
from bending over with a heavy chainsaw they were useless because of their
length, so I switched to shorter lever chain hoists. With one exception
these were so much more satisfactory and durable that I parked all the
come-alongs. The 1000 and 1500 Lb hoists get the most use. I need one at
each end to center the wider logs on the sawmill track.

The lever chain hoists are about as good as come-alongs for horizontal pulls
on dry ground, and better than chainfalls whose hand chain doesn't feed well
horizontally. If I expected I might get stuck without a mounted winch I'd
bring my 2000 Lb x 12' lever chain hoist from Northern Tool. It has pulled a
trailer load up a hill too steep for my tractor. I've had four chain hoists
in use at once lifting a shed on and off a construction trailer.

A 2" ratchet cargo strap can pull 1000 Lbs (measured) in short steps and may
be useful for unintentional recovery and towing in addition to tie-down.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Bob La Londe

I use [boat winches] for lack of a better inexpensive alternative.

A come-a-long, while slower, is marginally safer when operated correctly
and it is actually rated for lifting.  Yes, they tend to be a little
more expensive, but not prohibitively so.  I have used a come-a-long for
things like lifting a burnt-out compressor out the center of a
condensing unit with a straight bar and a ladder.  No fear of failure.
I've got a couple of them for such tasks.  I also have a couple chain
falls.
Heat and UV eats up synthetic winch cable.  All the cool kids in the off
road community use the stuff, but all three of my electric
loading/recovery winches have steel cable.  I run steel on my electric
recovery/loading winches because I tend to run solo so the only one who
could stupidly stand right next to it is me, and I don't use them all
that often so I would rather they didn't sun rot before the next time I
need it.
Its a choice.  Much greater longevity VS some protection against
stupidity.  If I did the weekend group trail rides I would switch to
synthetic on my primary off road vehicle.
---------------------------------------
Thanks for the info. I bought the synthetic cable for an ATV winch but
never installed it. The boat winch I put it on mostly stays in a shed,
and last summer was under the rain shelter for the gantry and sawmill.
It happened that the track hoisting (not supporting) winch on the sunny
end tripod had steel cable and I did all the gantry track leveling with
the shaded synthetic cable winch. There was a lot of readjustment
because after sawing the lighter logs I upgraded the gantry hardware for
two 4000+ lb logs. What I post about hoisting is from personal
experience studying for, designing, building and using the equipment.
I began logging with generic lever cable pullers, to pull down trees
lodged against others or guide ones likely to be. The cheap ones wore
out very quickly and greasing them made little difference. Replacing the
axles with harder steel bolts and shimming for better alignment partly
helped, the ratchets were next to fail. When I figured out how to join
fence posts into folding tripods to lift firewood logs off the rocky
ground and spare my back from bending over with a heavy chainsaw they
were useless because of their length, so I switched to shorter lever
chain hoists. With one exception these were so much more satisfactory
and durable that I parked all the come-alongs. The 1000 and 1500 Lb
hoists get the most use. I need one at each end to center the wider logs
on the sawmill track.
The lever chain hoists are about as good as come-alongs for horizontal
pulls on dry ground, and better than chainfalls whose hand chain doesn't
feed well horizontally.  If I expected I might get stuck without a
mounted winch I'd bring my 2000 Lb x 12' lever chain hoist from Northern
Tool. It has pulled a trailer load up a hill too steep for my tractor.
I've had four chain hoists in use at once lifting a shed on and off a
construction trailer.
A 2" ratchet cargo strap can pull 1000 Lbs (measured) in short steps and
may be useful for unintentional recovery and towing in addition to tie-
down.

Oh, I am absolutely not buying the item linked in post one for the
primary application. I recently ran across several pieces of H/I (wide
flange) beams for free to me. Enough to build a gantry crane and a jib
crane and have some left over. The title indicated I thought it was
silly, and if I had any plan to use it I think I talked myself out of it.

For my primary jib crane application. I would ideally want about 9' to
9'6" reach with a little over 200 degree of easy pivot, and no actual
vertical movement of the beam. The main beam would be best supported
from below with a heavy brace, and have a maximum vertical height at the
highest point of about 11'10". Positioned where I would like it that
would allow it to swing out through the opening of a 12H x 10W overhead
door and pick up a load from the bed of the truck and place it inside on
a rack or shelf next to the path of the doorway without having to bring
the truck inside.

I wouldn't say I have a plan, but I have ideas.

The jib crane Jason with Fireball tools installed in this shop was an
inspiration for me. Its secured to the floor and "ceiling" with what
seems like tapered roller bearings top and bottom.

I do not have a CNC plasma cutter so everything would have to be
freehand cut or CNC milled. I have a couple torches, and a small plasma
cutter. While I wouldn't say I am good I am both better and faster with
the torch. I guess because I learned how to use a torch 45 years ago.
I've also got a 9 (9-1/2?) inch metal cutting circular saw for some
square cuts. Anyway, I've got a bunch of ways to cut metal, and at
least a couple ways of gluing it back together.

I'd like to know what the rating is for their crane. I know... I
know... its shop made so no rating. LOL. They show lifting half a
sheet of 1/4 inch plate. Seems heavy, but a full sheet is less than 300
lbs. I know I have 9 of them stacked out back. The 10th one is the top
on my welding table. (The price was right. If I'd had a heavy trailer
at the time I would have bought more of them.) Oh, they say 500lbs at
the end of the boom. Bracing could definitely increase that. Maybe
removable bracing so it can have greater trolley travel OR greater lift
capacity as needed.

Yeah, I'm dreaming. I barely have time to get customer jobs finished
these days.

[Leon Fisk]

On Thu, 13 Feb 2025 17:50:17 -0700
Bob La Londe <***@none.com99> wrote:

<snip>

Post by Bob La Londe
Its secured to the floor and "ceiling" with what
seems like tapered roller bearings top and bottom.

I grabbed a couple RAM 3500 front 4x4 wheel bearing/hub assemblies
being tossed by a friend. Thought one would make a great base to mount
to the floor for spinning something on top of it. They already have
bolts or threaded holes on both sides and a bearing. They didn't run
right on the road but for something like this you wouldn't notice.

A smaller version is this Impala front wheel hub/bearing
assembly:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2015,impala,3.6l+v6,3308755,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+hub,7632

[Jim Wilkins]

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:vondgf$3f8rl$***@dont-email.me...

On Thu, 13 Feb 2025 17:50:17 -0700
Bob La Londe <***@none.com99> wrote:

<snip>

Post by Bob La Londe
Its secured to the floor and "ceiling" with what
seems like tapered roller bearings top and bottom.

I grabbed a couple RAM 3500 front 4x4 wheel bearing/hub assemblies
being tossed by a friend. Thought one would make a great base to mount
to the floor for spinning something on top of it. They already have
bolts or threaded holes on both sides and a bearing. They didn't run
right on the road but for something like this you wouldn't notice.

A smaller version is this Impala front wheel hub/bearing
assembly:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2015,impala,3.6l+v6,3308755,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+hub,7632
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

----------------------------------
It seems a toss-up whether large bearings or shafts to mount them on are
easier/harder to find as surplus. I tend toward galvanized pipe and tubing
for their availability, perhaps more than their suitability. Adapter
bushings are within my 10" lathe's capacity. The scrapyards and small shops
I once used as metal sources have gone away, and the small sizes of most of
my projects rarely justify buying full mill lengths of stock.
jsw

[Leon Fisk]

On Fri, 14 Feb 2025 12:49:49 -0500

Post by Jim Wilkins
t seems a toss-up whether large bearings or shafts to mount them on are
easier/harder to find as surplus. I tend toward galvanized pipe and tubing
for their availability, perhaps more than their suitability. Adapter
bushings are within my 10" lathe's capacity. The scrapyards and small shops
I once used as metal sources have gone away, and the small sizes of most of
my projects rarely justify buying full mill lengths of stock.
jsw

These wheel bearing/hubs are throw aways. There was no provision in
them for repacking the bearing or replacing it. So if you checked
around the repair shops you could probably get them for free. A lot of
times they make noises while driving but would be suitable for what Bob
wants to do. Mount one to the floor and another overhead to ceiling.
Put flanges on a pipe, channel... that matches bolt pattern on the hub.
Or find a tire rim that fits them if that would work better in some way.

A lot of my old sources for stuff have disappeared too. I think part of
it is liability worries and businesses being regulated/taxed beyond
reason nowadays🤷

[Jim Wilkins]

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:voo2h6$3j2j3$***@dont-email.me...

These wheel bearing/hubs are throw aways. There was no provision in
them for repacking the bearing or replacing it. So if you checked
around the repair shops you could probably get them for free. A lot of
times they make noises while driving but would be suitable for what Bob
wants to do. Mount one to the floor and another overhead to ceiling.
Put flanges on a pipe, channel... that matches bolt pattern on the hub.
Or find a tire rim that fits them if that would work better in some way.

A lot of my old sources for stuff have disappeared too. I think part of
it is liability worries and businesses being regulated/taxed beyond
reason nowadays🤷
Leon Fisk
------------------------------------

Many possibilities. I've found that if I acquire materials for one design
they may be useful for several others as well. Quick estimates when I
stumble onto something interesting are usually good enough, as long as I
know the requirements like the expected load.

Unfortunately the sawmill and gantry hoist were designed for logs up to 2'
across at the base and 2000 Lbs. I didn't expect the bigger trees to ever
come down...
jsw

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Leon Fisk
On Fri, 14 Feb 2025 12:49:49 -0500

Post by Jim Wilkins
t seems a toss-up whether large bearings or shafts to mount them on are
easier/harder to find as surplus. I tend toward galvanized pipe and tubing
for their availability, perhaps more than their suitability. Adapter
bushings are within my 10" lathe's capacity. The scrapyards and small shops
I once used as metal sources have gone away, and the small sizes of most of
my projects rarely justify buying full mill lengths of stock.
jsw

These wheel bearing/hubs are throw aways. There was no provision in
them for repacking the bearing or replacing it. So if you checked
around the repair shops you could probably get them for free. A lot of
times they make noises while driving but would be suitable for what Bob
wants to do. Mount one to the floor and another overhead to ceiling.
Put flanges on a pipe, channel... that matches bolt pattern on the hub.
Or find a tire rim that fits them if that would work better in some way.
A lot of my old sources for stuff have disappeared too. I think part of
it is liability worries and businesses being regulated/taxed beyond
reason nowadays🤷

I still have the OEM wheels off that truck Chevy truck I mentioned. I
used one for a concrete filled base for a grinder pedestal. The others
I had planned for hose hangers. Dang it. I'm never going to be able to
throw anything away ever again am I?

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Leon Fisk
On Fri, 14 Feb 2025 12:49:49 -0500

Post by Jim Wilkins
t seems a toss-up whether large bearings or shafts to mount them on are
easier/harder to find as surplus. I tend toward galvanized pipe and tubing
for their availability, perhaps more than their suitability. Adapter
bushings are within my 10" lathe's capacity. The scrapyards and small shops
I once used as metal sources have gone away, and the small sizes of most of
my projects rarely justify buying full mill lengths of stock.
jsw

These wheel bearing/hubs are throw aways. There was no provision in
them for repacking the bearing or replacing it. So if you checked
around the repair shops you could probably get them for free. A lot of
times they make noises while driving but would be suitable for what Bob
wants to do. Mount one to the floor and another overhead to ceiling.
Put flanges on a pipe, channel... that matches bolt pattern on the hub.
Or find a tire rim that fits them if that would work better in some way.
A lot of my old sources for stuff have disappeared too. I think part of
it is liability worries and businesses being regulated/taxed beyond
reason nowadays?

I still have the OEM wheels off that truck Chevy truck I mentioned. I
used one for a concrete filled base for a grinder pedestal. The others
I had planned for hose hangers. Dang it. I'm never going to be able to
throw anything away ever again am I?
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

You can be guaranteed you will not find a use for it until 3 days
after you throw it out!!!

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Leon Fisk
On Thu, 13 Feb 2025 17:50:17 -0700
<snip>

Post by Bob La Londe
Its secured to the floor and "ceiling" with what
seems like tapered roller bearings top and bottom.

I grabbed a couple RAM 3500 front 4x4 wheel bearing/hub assemblies
being tossed by a friend. Thought one would make a great base to mount
to the floor for spinning something on top of it. They already have
bolts or threaded holes on both sides and a bearing. They didn't run
right on the road but for something like this you wouldn't notice.
A smaller version is this Impala front wheel hub/bearing
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2015,impala,3.6l+v6,3308755,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+hub,7632

I was thinking wheel bearings might be a cheap option. I have actually
replaced (and saved for a while) three spindle hub assemblies off the
front of the Silverado 2500HD over the years I owned it. Like a lot of
junk I thought I might use it someday, and then I threw it away. LOL.
Pitched the last one after I sold the truck last year.

[Jim Wilkins]

Post by Leon Fisk

Post by Bob La Londe
Its secured to the floor and "ceiling" with what
seems like tapered roller bearings top and bottom.

I grabbed a couple RAM 3500 front 4x4 wheel bearing/hub assemblies
being tossed by a friend.

I was thinking wheel bearings might be a cheap option. I have actually
replaced (and saved for a while) three spindle hub assemblies off the
front of the Silverado 2500HD over the years I owned it. Like a lot of
junk I thought I might use it someday, and then I threw it away. LOL.
Pitched the last one after I sold the truck last year.
Bob La Londe

--------------------------

Your suggested loading may be within the capacity of small inexpensive
trailer wheel bearings. The tradeoff is cost vs effort to adapt them. I try
to keep long shafts within the 1-3/8" spindle bore size of my lathe, and
preferably the max 1" 5C thru-hole collet.
jsw

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vom408$34v8t$***@dont-email.me...

Oh, I am absolutely not buying the item linked in post one for the
primary application. I recently ran across several pieces of H/I (wide
flange) beams for free to me. Enough to build a gantry crane and a jib
crane and have some left over. The title indicated I thought it was
silly, and if I had any plan to use it I think I talked myself out of it.

For my primary jib crane application. I would ideally want about 9' to
9'6" reach with a little over 200 degree of easy pivot, and no actual
vertical movement of the beam. The main beam would be best supported
from below with a heavy brace, and have a maximum vertical height at the
highest point of about 11'10". Positioned where I would like it that
would allow it to swing out through the opening of a 12H x 10W overhead
door and pick up a load from the bed of the truck and place it inside on
a rack or shelf next to the path of the doorway without having to bring
the truck inside.

I wouldn't say I have a plan, but I have ideas.

The jib crane Jason with Fireball tools installed in this shop was an
inspiration for me. Its secured to the floor and "ceiling" with what
seems like tapered roller bearings top and bottom.

http://youtu.be/n3c6yDDMq_E

I do not have a CNC plasma cutter so everything would have to be
freehand cut or CNC milled. I have a couple torches, and a small plasma
cutter. While I wouldn't say I am good I am both better and faster with
the torch. I guess because I learned how to use a torch 45 years ago.
I've also got a 9 (9-1/2?) inch metal cutting circular saw for some
square cuts. Anyway, I've got a bunch of ways to cut metal, and at
least a couple ways of gluing it back together.

I'd like to know what the rating is for their crane. I know... I
know... its shop made so no rating. LOL. They show lifting half a
sheet of 1/4 inch plate. Seems heavy, but a full sheet is less than 300
lbs. I know I have 9 of them stacked out back. The 10th one is the top
on my welding table. (The price was right. If I'd had a heavy trailer
at the time I would have bought more of them.) Oh, they say 500lbs at
the end of the boom. Bracing could definitely increase that. Maybe
removable bracing so it can have greater trolley travel OR greater lift
capacity as needed.

Yeah, I'm dreaming. I barely have time to get customer jobs finished
these days.
Bob La Londe

-----------------------------------
The Vevor beam pivot was simple to make, bad to copy. For occasional use you
can get away with a steel on steel beam pivot bearing, perhaps with a
replaceable sheetmetal wear surface. It will be harder to swing, more likely
to stay where you leave it. That's all the 1000 Lb truck bed crane has, and
steel on steel pivots are common in yard equipment. I fixed 20 years of wear
on some with bronze bushings and new pins.

A step up that's easy to make is a needle bearing using welding rod or music
wire for the needles. Races for a homebrew ball thrust bearing can be turned
with the sharpened shank end of a carbide endmill.

I've examined a broken logging truck crane that failed from lift cylinder
base pin hole to mounting bracket edge tearout before the bearings went. It
was puzzling because normally the boom weight and load push the pin inward
toward the column yet the metal tore outward. My guess is that the boom
pivot was worn enough to transfer turning torque to the lift cylinder, and
abrupt starts and stops from swinging horizontally twisted the lower pin
sideways to create unanticipated outward force on one end.

In ship building 1" steel plate is taken as 40 Lbs per square foot for ease
of weight estimation. Plate thickness is designated by weight PSF, such as
10 Pound for 1/4" or 25 for 5/8" plate. For Wide Flange (WF) and other
structural beams the sizes are nominal height x weight per foot, which
correlates to web thickness.

The removable bracing that's worked for me is shear legs joined at the
bottom with chain and a lever hoist. The top joint is two triangles bolted
to the pipe, a third bolt passes through the pin end of a large shackle with
chain attached for coarse initial height adjustment. Pulling the feet
together lifts the beam. Unlike a single post the legs won't tip sideways,
and they can straddle the load. On mine the lower end is half balls turned
from a dumbbell riding in pyramidal plywood cups on a baseplate like an Army
mortar for outdoor swinging loads like stacking logs, for an indoor upright
it could be a simpler single pivot, U bracketed to a steel plate.

The shear legs can be draped over the beam, chained to it loosely at the
top, then snugged up from below, each a simple one-man operation. Mine is
water pipe and difficult to set up because the CG is so high, 2" x 10' EMT
like my taller tripods is easier. 2" EMT and chain link fence posts should
telescope together for longer lengths, depending on tolerance.
jsw

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vom408$34v8t$***@dont-email.me...

Oh, I am absolutely not buying the item linked in post one for the
primary application. ... The title indicated I thought it was
silly, and if I had any plan to use it I think I talked myself out of it.
------------------------------------

You wouldn't, someone less experienced might mistake your mention of it as a
recommendation.

[Jim Wilkins]

...jib crane...

A folding shop crane might do all you need if you make shorter folding legs
that let it fit crosswise in front of your machines.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-58794.html?

I marked my Spreuer shop crane with the (measured) tipping moment in
foot-pounds its weight gives at the front wheels so I can figure a safe load
limit for boom extensions. "Moment" means leverage. The tipping limit
doesn't match the hydraulic cylinder limit which applies when the hook is
behind the wheels. Max capacity is the lesser of the two.

With an added winch or hoist they lift straight up, for the lathe chuck. You
could make a secure clamp for the chuck from perforated steel strapping, a
clamping and a lifting bolt.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vodvr0$1dn6k$***@dont-email.me...

I'd like to have a jib crane just inside a 12'H x 10'W overhead door.
Its a silly reason. It might be handy for a few things, but the main
one is to reach out side and lift the 5th wheel companion (locks into my
under bed goose neck hitch) out of the bed of the truck, swing it inside
and set it on a relatively high shelf out of the way.

--------------------------------------

Farming equipment "trunnion bearings" would make the rest of a pivoting jib
crane simple to fabricate.
https://www.rangelinegroup.com/product/product-291/

If the boom doesn't have to pivot vertically very far a self-aligning
bearing in a pillow block should be cheaper.