Using A Lathe To Install a Goose Neck Hitch

[Bob La Londe]

After drilling a giant hole int he bed of my new truck I decided I
wanted to hit the freshly raw aluminum surface with some metal etching
primer, and some black paint to match the black sprayed in bed liner and
protect the metal.

All my paint has been on the shelf a long time. I wasn't able to break
the bearing inside the can loose on the lathe, but after I got it moving
I was able to chuck the spray can up cross wise in the six jaw chuck by
removing two opposed jaws.

I think taping the can to a long blade in the Super Sawzall is faster,
but I can walk away with the lathe on 70 RPM and work on something else
for 20 minutes when I chuck it in the lathe.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vek97o$1c4gf$***@dont-email.me...

After drilling a giant hole int he bed of my new truck I decided I
wanted to hit the freshly raw aluminum surface with some metal etching
primer, and some black paint to match the black sprayed in bed liner and
protect the metal.

All my paint has been on the shelf a long time. I wasn't able to break
the bearing inside the can loose on the lathe, but after I got it moving
I was able to chuck the spray can up cross wise in the six jaw chuck by
removing two opposed jaws.

I think taping the can to a long blade in the Super Sawzall is faster,
but I can walk away with the lathe on 70 RPM and work on something else
for 20 minutes when I chuck it in the lathe.

Bob La Londe
----------------------------

As a kid I made a rock tumbler consisting of a small windmill with a wood
pulley and string speed reduction to the paint can holder. It did a fairly
good job of scaring birds from Dad's garden as well. The blades were crossed
sticks with thin plastic or aluminum flashing rectangles nailed on along one
edge, so they self-feathered in strong winds. It lasted about 3 months
between repairs.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Bob La Londe
After drilling a giant hole int he bed of my new truck I decided I
wanted to hit the freshly raw aluminum surface with some metal etching
primer, and some black paint to match the black sprayed in bed liner and
protect the metal.
All my paint has been on the shelf a long time.  I wasn't able to break
the bearing inside the can loose on the lathe, but after I got it moving
I was able to chuck the spray can up cross wise in the six jaw chuck by
removing two opposed jaws.
I think taping the can to a long blade in the Super Sawzall is faster,
but I can walk away with the lathe on 70 RPM and work on something else
for 20 minutes when I chuck it in the lathe.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------
As a kid I made a rock tumbler consisting of a small windmill with a
wood pulley and string speed reduction to the paint can holder. It did a
fairly good job of scaring birds from Dad's garden as well. The blades
were crossed sticks with thin plastic or aluminum flashing rectangles
nailed on along one edge, so they self-feathered in strong winds.  It
lasted about 3 months between repairs.

Finished it up with a grinder. Many years ago, when this group was
thick with masters of all, I was a bit taken aback by all the folks who
would say, "I just freehand sharpen drills with a grinder." Well, now I
just sharpen drills with a grinder. Today I had to drill four holes in
the bed of the new truck for spring loaded chain loops. The only 11/16
drill bit I found looked like it had a poor shallow grind for wallowing
its way through steel truck frames... In fact I think that's what it was
last use for, and I'm sure I was the one who put that grind on it. I
walked it over to the grinder and put a sharp aggressive three facet
grind (6 if you want to be technical) on it for aluminum and punched the
holes I needed right through the stiffener and bed of the truck. (There
were already holes in the steel under bed goose neck ball hitch plate.

After that it was just the usual fat guy trying to work under a truck to
get the springs and nuts on the under side of the chain loops.

All finished up. Next project electric running boards so my wife can
get in and out of the truck safely without my having to run around the
truck with a step stool. Yeah, I keep a step stool in the bed right now.

I keep telling myself I'll get some nice CBN wheels for one of the
grinders so I can sharpen lathe bits, drills, and even split points all
on one machine and I still haven't completely worn out a set of the
cheap grey stones they come with. I probably should dress them more
often though.

Anyway now, "I just free hand sharpen drills on the grinder." Its not
even very hard once you've done a few. 3/16 and up is pretty easy. I
have sharpened smaller by swinging a magnifying lamp over the grinder,
but the smaller drills are so cheap I just buy them in batches.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vepf95$2e45q$***@dont-email.me...

Finished it up with a grinder. Many years ago, when this group was
thick with masters of all, I was a bit taken aback by all the folks who
would say, "I just freehand sharpen drills with a grinder." Well, now I
just sharpen drills with a grinder. Today I had to drill four holes in
the bed of the new truck for spring loaded chain loops. The only 11/16
drill bit I found looked like it had a poor shallow grind for wallowing
its way through steel truck frames... In fact I think that's what it was
last use for, and I'm sure I was the one who put that grind on it. I
walked it over to the grinder and put a sharp aggressive three facet
grind (6 if you want to be technical) on it for aluminum and punched the
holes I needed right through the stiffener and bed of the truck. (There
were already holes in the steel under bed goose neck ball hitch plate.

After that it was just the usual fat guy trying to work under a truck to
get the springs and nuts on the under side of the chain loops.

All finished up. Next project electric running boards so my wife can
get in and out of the truck safely without my having to run around the
truck with a step stool. Yeah, I keep a step stool in the bed right now.

I keep telling myself I'll get some nice CBN wheels for one of the
grinders so I can sharpen lathe bits, drills, and even split points all
on one machine and I still haven't completely worn out a set of the
cheap grey stones they come with. I probably should dress them more
often though.

Anyway now, "I just free hand sharpen drills on the grinder." Its not
even very hard once you've done a few. 3/16 and up is pretty easy. I
have sharpened smaller by swinging a magnifying lamp over the grinder,
but the smaller drills are so cheap I just buy them in batches.
Bob La Londe

-------------------------------

You'll know you are Really good when they drill to size. I can make a dull
or broken bit cut well but usually pass it through a Drill Doctor
afterwards.

[Snag]

Finished it up with a grinder.  Many years ago, when this group was
thick with masters of all, I was a bit taken aback by all the folks who
would say, "I just freehand sharpen drills with a grinder."  Well, now I
just sharpen drills with a grinder.  Today I had to drill four holes in
the bed of the new truck for spring loaded chain loops.  The only 11/16
drill bit I found looked like it had a poor shallow grind for wallowing
its way through steel truck frames... In fact I think that's what it was
last use for, and I'm sure I was the one who put that grind on it.  I
walked it over to the grinder and put a sharp aggressive three facet
grind (6 if you want to be technical) on it for aluminum and punched the
holes I needed right through the stiffener and bed of the truck.  (There
were already holes in the steel under bed goose neck ball hitch plate.
After that it was just the usual fat guy trying to work under a truck to
get the springs and nuts on the under side of the chain loops.
All finished up.  Next project electric running boards so my wife can
get in and out of the truck safely without my having to run around the
truck with a step stool.  Yeah, I keep a step stool in the bed right now.
I keep telling myself I'll get some nice CBN wheels for one of the
grinders so I can sharpen lathe bits, drills, and even split points all
on one machine and I still haven't completely worn out a set of the
cheap grey stones they come with.  I probably should dress them more
often though.
Anyway now, "I just free hand sharpen drills on the grinder."  Its not
even very hard once you've done a few.  3/16 and up is pretty easy.  I
have sharpened smaller by swinging a magnifying lamp over the grinder,
but the smaller drills are so cheap I just buy them in batches.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------------
You'll know you are Really good when they drill to size. I can make a
dull or broken bit cut well but usually pass it through a Drill Doctor
afterwards.

I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD
only has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...

[Jim Wilkins]

"Snag" wrote in message news:vepqs0$2jh1r$***@dont-email.me...

I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD
only has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...
Snag
-----------------------------------
I bought a separate DD 3/4" chuck which works in my 1/2" DD.

[Snag]

  I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD
only has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...
Snag
-----------------------------------
I bought a separate DD 3/4" chuck which works in my 1/2" DD.

I considered it but I only have like 4 bits over 1/2" that I use and
those not all that often .

[Jim Wilkins]

I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD only
has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...
Snag
-----------------------------------
I bought a separate DD 3/4" chuck which works in my 1/2" DD.

I considered it but I only have like 4 bits over 1/2" that I use and
those not all that often .
Snag

------------------------------------

My larger bits are mostly S&D with 1/2" shanks, so I made a 5C collet
tightening cap with a 1/2" alignment bushing to surface grind them in the
end mill fixture. I haven't yet dulled a bit larger than the 3/4" the DD
will accept to test it. Perhaps making it was good insurance I wouldn't need
to use it.

The cap and its spanner wrench were small enough for the goodie bag I took
to job interviews to show I have mechanical as well as electronic skills,
which helped get me into Segway. Being able to design and machine what I
wanted saved me from having to beg a mechanical engineer's assistance and
accept their idea of what the mainly electronic problem required, they would
make the often correct assumption that an electronic tech knew nothing of
mechanical design. Mitre and Segway let me charge for time in my home shop.

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Snag

   I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD
only has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...
Snag
-----------------------------------
I bought a separate DD 3/4" chuck which works in my 1/2" DD.

I considered it but I only have like 4 bits over 1/2" that I use and
those not all that often .
Snag
------------------------------------
My larger bits are mostly S&D with 1/2" shanks, so I made a 5C collet
tightening cap with a 1/2" alignment bushing to surface grind them in
the end mill fixture. I haven't yet dulled a bit larger than the 3/4"
the DD will accept to test it. Perhaps making it was good insurance I
wouldn't need to use it.
The cap and its spanner wrench were small enough for the goodie bag I
took to job interviews to show I have mechanical as well as electronic
skills, which helped get me into Segway. Being able to design and
machine what I wanted saved me from having to beg a mechanical
engineer's assistance and accept their idea of what the mainly
electronic problem required, they would make the often correct
assumption that an electronic tech knew nothing of mechanical design.
Mitre and Segway let me charge for time in my home shop.

I've got a couple inexpensive S&D sets. One of the most useful was a
stubby set I bought from Enco before they were assimilated by the BORG.
The cheap sets are fine. Especially since I can fairly easily resharpen
them myself. I've also gone out of my way to find a few common sizes
with Morse Taper shanks for faster tool changes on the Precision Mathews
lathe. I've got a few common stock parts I make routinely in small
batches and quick tool changes makes a big difference. Between collet
chucks, jacobs style chucks, and MT shank drills I have all the tools
ready to go for three different common batch jobs. Which reminds me. I
should make another batch of "bolt action" pens that use the Space Pen
(tm) cartridges again.

You know the original bolt action pen project was what convinced me I
could do a decent job of sharpening drills. I had a metric drill out of
a set from Precision Twist Drill that lasted for about 1-1/2 pens and I
was up against my time table to get the pens done before the Christmas
holiday. I was pretty peeved that a more expensive brand died so
quickly, but I put it off to being stainless. I figured it was ruined
anyway, so I'd try to free hand it. My simple three facet grind cut
better than the factory grind and lasted for the next dozen (give or
take) pens and went back in the case still sharp enough to do a few more.

Circular thinking...

You know what I really should do is get to work on the turret lathe so I
can crank out those types of parts even faster.

[Gerry]

Post by Snag

  I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD
only has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...
Snag
-----------------------------------
I bought a separate DD 3/4" chuck which works in my 1/2" DD.

I considered it but I only have like 4 bits over 1/2" that I use and
those not all that often .

One saturday morning I found a half dozen bits over 1/2" for $2 each,
I tried to bargain with her but she said "No, they belong to my
boyfriend and he is very firm" her female friend made a puddle
laughing. Needless to say I gladly paid the full asking price!

[Jim Wilkins]

Post by Snag

Post by Snag
I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD
only has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...
Snag
-----------------------------------
I bought a separate DD 3/4" chuck which works in my 1/2" DD.

I considered it but I only have like 4 bits over 1/2" that I use and
those not all that often .

One saturday morning I found a half dozen bits over 1/2" for $2 each,
I tried to bargain with her but she said "No, they belong to my
boyfriend and he is very firm" her female friend made a puddle
laughing. Needless to say I gladly paid the full asking price!

------------------------

I became the engineering liaison to the production girls and was accepted
enough that they stopped watching their mouths around me and joked about the
Frito Lay Man and "A hard man is good to find."

[Gerry]

Post by Bob La Londe

Post by Bob La Londe
After drilling a giant hole int he bed of my new truck I decided I
wanted to hit the freshly raw aluminum surface with some metal etching
primer, and some black paint to match the black sprayed in bed liner and
protect the metal.
All my paint has been on the shelf a long time.  I wasn't able to break
the bearing inside the can loose on the lathe, but after I got it moving
I was able to chuck the spray can up cross wise in the six jaw chuck by
removing two opposed jaws.
I think taping the can to a long blade in the Super Sawzall is faster,
but I can walk away with the lathe on 70 RPM and work on something else
for 20 minutes when I chuck it in the lathe.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------
As a kid I made a rock tumbler consisting of a small windmill with a
wood pulley and string speed reduction to the paint can holder. It did a
fairly good job of scaring birds from Dad's garden as well. The blades
were crossed sticks with thin plastic or aluminum flashing rectangles
nailed on along one edge, so they self-feathered in strong winds.  It
lasted about 3 months between repairs.

Finished it up with a grinder. Many years ago, when this group was
thick with masters of all, I was a bit taken aback by all the folks who
would say, "I just freehand sharpen drills with a grinder." Well, now I
just sharpen drills with a grinder. Today I had to drill four holes in
the bed of the new truck for spring loaded chain loops. The only 11/16
drill bit I found looked like it had a poor shallow grind for wallowing
its way through steel truck frames... In fact I think that's what it was
last use for, and I'm sure I was the one who put that grind on it. I
walked it over to the grinder and put a sharp aggressive three facet
grind (6 if you want to be technical) on it for aluminum and punched the
holes I needed right through the stiffener and bed of the truck. (There
were already holes in the steel under bed goose neck ball hitch plate.
After that it was just the usual fat guy trying to work under a truck to
get the springs and nuts on the under side of the chain loops.
All finished up. Next project electric running boards so my wife can
get in and out of the truck safely without my having to run around the
truck with a step stool. Yeah, I keep a step stool in the bed right now.
I keep telling myself I'll get some nice CBN wheels for one of the
grinders so I can sharpen lathe bits, drills, and even split points all
on one machine and I still haven't completely worn out a set of the
cheap grey stones they come with. I probably should dress them more
often though.
Anyway now, "I just free hand sharpen drills on the grinder." Its not
even very hard once you've done a few. 3/16 and up is pretty easy. I
have sharpened smaller by swinging a magnifying lamp over the grinder,
but the smaller drills are so cheap I just buy them in batches.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

For fifty years I sharpened drills freehand on a variety of grinders
including the old hand cranked, geared, clamped to the bench one my
granfather brought with him, and the home built stone on a 1/4 HP
motor. Now I still hand sharpen but finish most of them on the Drill
Doctor.
I totally broke Junior's FiL when he sent in a basket of bits for me
to sharpen - among them was a 1/2" concrete bit with the insert
missing. I sent it back nicely sharpened with a hole drilled through
the web and a tag wired to it saying "Drill shaped object - Use only
to make holes in room temperature butter"!

[Jim Wilkins]

"Gerry" wrote in message news:***@4ax.com...

I totally broke Junior's FiL when he sent in a basket of bits for me
to sharpen - among them was a 1/2" concrete bit with the insert
missing. I sent it back nicely sharpened with a hole drilled through
the web and a tag wired to it saying "Drill shaped object - Use only
to make holes in room temperature butter"!

---------------------------

The most recent drill-shaped object I made was a small hole saw from 3/16"
gas welding rod, to free the broken tip of a #1 center drill so I could
finish the #8-32 tap hole through the otherwise tediously completed aluminum
part. The filed teeth needed several resharpenings to keep the chips flowing
but it did the job.

The holes are for setscrews and pins that can push out pressed-in bearings.
The parts are bandsaw blade guide rollers similar to this, but minus the
sawdust grooves because a scraper of aluminum flashing cleans the blade
ahead of them, and the blade back support is a separate bearing on edge
instead of the flange.

https://cookssaw.com/parts/roller-guides/

The prototype aluminum rollers wore enough that I made a steel pair. The
blade runs at 50-60MPH which is hard on the guides and their bearings, not
far from the PV limit of a good bearing and beyond it for some cheap ones
from Amazon, or the smaller skate bearings I used before. The ball cages
break, pop the seals off and sawdust jams them or the balls fly out. The saw
keeps cutting but not as straight.

A safety pin (on my key chain) can remove the rubber seals or metal shields
from ball bearings to clean and grease them. Shields are retained by a
spring clip at the outer edge that the pin tip can catch the inward beveled
end of and pop it out of the groove. Both reinstall without tools after some
practice.

When I changed phone carriers the clerk couldn't find his tool to unlatch
the SIM card and asked me if I had one (yeah, right). To his surprise I
handed him the safety pin which worked fine.
jsw

[Bob La Londe]

Post by Gerry
I totally broke Junior's FiL when he sent in a basket of bits for me
to sharpen - among them was a 1/2" concrete bit with the insert
missing. I sent it back nicely sharpened with a hole drilled through
the web and a tag wired to it saying "Drill shaped object - Use only
to make holes in room temperature butter"!
---------------------------
The most recent drill-shaped object I made was a small hole saw from
3/16" gas welding rod, to free the broken tip of a #1 center drill so I
could finish the #8-32 tap hole through the otherwise tediously
completed aluminum part. The filed teeth needed several resharpenings to
keep the chips flowing but it did the job.
The holes are for setscrews and pins that can push out pressed-in
bearings. The parts are bandsaw blade guide rollers similar to this, but
minus the sawdust grooves because a scraper of aluminum flashing cleans
the blade ahead of them, and the blade back support is a separate
bearing on edge instead of the flange.
https://cookssaw.com/parts/roller-guides/
The prototype aluminum rollers wore enough that I made a steel pair. The
blade runs at 50-60MPH which is hard on the guides and their bearings,
not far from the PV limit of a good bearing and beyond it for some cheap
ones from Amazon, or the smaller skate bearings I used before. The ball
cages break, pop the seals off and sawdust jams them or the balls fly
out. The saw keeps cutting but not as straight.
A safety pin (on my key chain) can remove the rubber seals or metal
shields from ball bearings to clean and grease them. Shields are
retained by a spring clip at the outer edge that the pin tip can catch
the inward beveled end of and pop it out of the groove. Both reinstall
without tools after some practice.
When I changed phone carriers the clerk couldn't find his tool to
unlatch the SIM card and asked me if I had one (yeah, right). To his
surprise I handed him the safety pin which worked fine.
jsw

I tried to make a tiny hole saw to cut out rusted and broken steel
screws galvanicaly bonded into aluminum sheet last year... maybe the
year before. It was a work of art, until all the teeth sheared off
instantly on the first screw. Then I did what I should have done in the
first place and picked up the plasma cutter.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:veuc1a$2uufu$***@dont-email.me...

I tried to make a tiny hole saw to cut out rusted and broken steel
screws galvanicaly bonded into aluminum sheet last year... maybe the
year before. It was a work of art, until all the teeth sheared off
instantly on the first screw. Then I did what I should have done in the
first place and picked up the plasma cutter.
Bob La Londe

---------------------------------

I found and considered this too:
https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/use-of-alum-to-dissolve-screws.61683/

But I didn't want to risk the work of boring the bearing recesses to a
finger press fit.